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I prefer Polaris lugs or splitbolts Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Not a fan of those taps, and by code, the conduits need bushings if the wire is 4awg or larger. I see noalox in there so thats good. Keep them coming Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Good work. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Definitely need a neutral. Also be sure neutrals and grounds are separate. Make sure the neutral buss is not bonded to ground. Otherwise looking good. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

And if that is the first means of disconnect you might not need a neutral. Big question to know for sure on that is whats feeding this panel? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

You need a bushing in the back of that panel Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Not bad, The only comment I would make is there is no flex installed in the conduit. might have vibration problems.

Grounding in my opinion, is a subject that could be better covered. Over here residential grounding is 1 rod 25 ohms or less, or 2 rods both need a minimum of 8 feet of soil contact. So you could have a very high resistance ground and still be up to code. One of my old coworkers used to...

Concrete is not a good grounding method. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Thinking aloud here (so to speak) you could drill into the front or top of the connection box and pipe into it with a piece of sealtite or carflex.

If youll never unhook the generator then a rod isn't necessary If there is any chance the generator will be run while completely disconnected then a rod is needed. Keep in mind the generator is only a Separately Derived System IF there is no switching action at the neutral (its rare to see...

can always drill the anchors in at a slight angle. Be aware if you install a twistlock (or any other cord and plug disconnect) you will loose your grounding when disconnected.

I am not in the office, so I cant look it up. 250.66 is for the service, and the last time I ran into this situation we had to match the service size because when you are running on utility the ground is still in play and would need to be able to take the full force of the possible fault...

Looks good, Make sure you use NOALOX on the connections. If it were me I wouldn't drive a rod at the generator because now you are adding a ground point to the ground network using a smaller ground conductor (code calls for 4 copper), That being said it also depends on your local codes...

Looks like fun. Are you planning on any form of automation? Make sure you properly ground and bond it.