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ok...... the solid bolt to replace banjo bolt is
fine thread 5/8-18 X 1 1/2
there is suppose to be one in your spare tire. added it to post 29.... which list the steps and parts you take to do the ctis delete from a wheel
IMHO his ( @chucky ) post was zero about purchasing anything... only that their site can be a place to start.... even if it is just for finding a picture. This time though...... their price appears to be one of the least costly. and it is the Oshkosh one butttt.... it still does NOT have...
Well this is interesting. Found on a 1994 M1079/ but not released to military (from Sealy?) till 97.
This particular truck had Ctis removed from one rear wheel. It held air this way for two known years.. Maybe more before that. A bolt is in there to replace Banjo bolt.. It is also wrapped...
ok... so now..... since the valve core on the two I've done do NOT end up deep in the tube.... but actually the push pin for fill/release air is slightly exposed....
Thus...... need a cover to prevent unintentional pin push ..... yet a standard "metal" Schrader valve cap does not fit..... so...
Not sure on this. Acela fellow swears they had a full run of wheels that were NOT the ones you point out.
anyway...... below is/was at least at one point the OEM Schrader valve made by Haltec @gringeltaube pointed to and appears to be what was on the two wheels Ive dealt with so far. Got...
might work for one stem but not for another. The Hutchinson/Oshkosh? stem maybe...... Seems their valve core 's threads allows for core to install much deeper down the tube.... while other stems the threading for the valve core starts at the top (Haldtec?) thusly the valve core does not end...
OK....... actual solution for when:
. you want to remove citis valves off of M1082 trailer to use on truck......
. if you get ctis leak issue (valve, kneeling elbow, hose leak etc.)
. Truck's wheel wheel ctis leak is so bad your engine compressor is going NUTS trying to compensate for the...
another FMTV owner/user/builder that also works for Acela stated the valve core threading is deeper inside the tube. You need a valve core screwdriver to get down to it. https://www.amazon.com/GVX-Valve-Core-Removal-Tool/dp/B01IE7EL1E/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B01IE7EL1E&psc=1
the threads your...
there is internal threads too from what has been reported thus the internal type Monkey Jack is best if that is true. Previous generation of that part number did have threads all the way up. at least one of Mine does if I recall right
curious.... does yours have internal threads?
1.5 people so far have said it works for them. (0.5 is because one of them had what looks like same thing on a device they purchased and robbed it from that device)
I still feel the internal Monkey Jack; IFFFF it will thread into standard valve core threaded tube) is the better route for it...
yes no
the internal adapter described here IS what is needed to use a regular air chuck.. (UPDATE- ) but so far no one has tried the internal adapter to see if it fits these tubes rather it be Oshkosh's or Haltec's valve stem type
or get special air chuck like below one a user said worked...
that is the point.
and apparently you do NOT need large bore schrader valve.. it is a standard valve..... but threads are rather deep inside the tube (ON THE OSHKOSH? version of this part- Not so with the Haltec version ... two mine so far must be Haltec )so you need the longer screw driver...
well this looks interesting
https://www.anhosefittings.com/dowty-bonded-sealing-washer.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw9uKIBhA8EiwAYPUS3K-B7QYwCAuCLmYdoT2A8yRaay5DJYiLRwt4SX2q_vbb3ZG1X_7ofhoConYQAvD_BwE
key seems to be...search for "sealing washer"
Banjo bolt gaskets for the wheel/lug hose.
Spicer part
673999
https://www.danaaftermarket.com/spicer-commercial-vehicle/commercial-axle/hardware/part/axle-nut-washer/673999
find it parts was out of stock as was other places. One listed a 120 day lead needed before ordering.
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