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One of my boxes has a little tizzy fit now and again, but because I have a dash lamp connected to one of the glow plug wires I can see it is actually going into after glow mode where it is "flashing" the glow plugs on and off, I give it about ten seconds and they get warm enough for the engine...

Sounds like you still have a glow plug issue, have you put a voltmeter on one of the glow plug wires to make sure it is getting juice? does the wait light come on for 6-10 seconds? I am not 100% sure but at 100 deg I don't think the cold start circuit even comes into play

Not really sure why the military thinks RTV is a good idea, instead of drying out afer getting wet it just festers underneath, unless of course YOU are the ONE that gets it completely sealed...

It was originally designed to protect the electrical system in the event the batteries were hooked up backwards, that entire premise was out the window as soon as the 200A alternator came out, no longer was the alternator going through and protected by the Protection Control Box. It was a noble...

With the EESS out there will be no power to the run/start switch so it does not matter what position it is in. EESS is a much more appropriate term than "smart box" If you had reviewed the TM, more specifically the schematic you would be aware of the power flow in the system, I would HIGHLY...

I think letting any engine cool down for a couple of minuets is a good idea, I try to do it with all my vehicles/equipment, fortunately for me my house is about a 1/4mi from my gate so all my vehicles get time to cool down as I open and close the gate and cruise down the drive.;)

That sounds like an old wives tail to me, I can not see how it makes any difference. In fact the EESS box does not control the light circuit

Me too

Also there could be other reasons you do not have any run power (check the fan and the wipers to make sure they are not getting power) it is definitely time to get out the schematic and volt meter and start doing some troubleshooting, seek help if you need it.

If I was going to the trouble of opening up the box and it was used I would replace it even if it was working.

On the later boxes they use multiple "automotive" type relays, probably look like this although I have not seen one. only read descriptions of them.

If you have no power at all after replacing the EESS then the relay in that yellow box could be bad, another common occurrence, at least that one is fairly easy to fix. You should here it "clunk" when the key is turned to run, but even that does not mean it is actually transferring power

The SCR that got fried is part of the glow plug circuit, seems to be a rather common way to die, the diode got un-soldered by the fire.