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.005 amps is 5 milliamps, the battery has 80-100 amp hours capacity at 1/20th draw rate (4 to 5 amp draw). 80 divided by 0.005 is 16000 hours or about 670 days. Self discharge is a greater rate.

Batteries can have self discharge, internal and external. Charge fully and disconnect, measuring voltage over a few days. Remember that voltage will be high fresh off the charger but should stabilize to 12.8 volts after 24 hours for flooded types and as high as 13.2 for AGM.

Sounds like corrosion or dirt between the cable end and steel body or engine.

What do you want to spend? Klein has a great clamp type DMM with voltage leads, it works great for rough current measurements with AC and DC, about $150. I've been using Klein for 10+ years.

Most digital voltmeters have a 10 ampere limit due to leads. Not too useful for automotive use. I have a 1 milliohm shunt resistor for measuring current, it is built from a length of 10 gauge solid wire. To use it, it is put into the circuit in series, setting the voltmeter across it in...

Odd that the battery voltage is higher than the alternator. Sounds like front battery ground or passenger alternator negative connection problem.

Nice! Now to fix the other alternators. Some batteries have screw in posts, try tightening it first.

I would replace the ring. Correct diameters are the only critical dimensions. The insulation should be crimped to the end tabs to reduce stress, copper can fatigue at the sharp edge of the conductor crimp.

If the rotor is good, those parts pictured cost about $50. Takes me 30 minutes to overhaul one, new bearings included. I have one spare alternator on hand, I should order an overhaul kit.

If the new one is a rebuild, it is possible they left the pin in the brush holder. This would prevent the brushes from contacting the slip rings. A new, loaded brush holder has this pin holding the two slip ring brushes in against the springs. Once assembled, this pin protrudes out the back...

Sounds like a bad regulator if the main connections test out good. Solid red, Bat+, should be voltage of both batteries, red with white stripe should be front battery voltage. Measure with engine off, red to red, black to ground.

That would only affect the driver side alternator and from battery. IIRC, the problem is with the passenger alternator and aft battery.

I do belive the charging issue is voltage to the regulator is wonky. Disconnect the 2 wire connection, measure voltage on each wire to ground key on engine off. Both should be both battery voltage sum..25 to 25.5.

The loose negative cable which runs to the back is for communication radio power. It may be an issue if another cable going to ground shares that stripped fastener.

With key on, engine off, measure voltage on the red wire in the 2 conductor block. Should be 24+ volts to ground. Same with the brown.

That is a lot of failed alternators. I would check all voltages at the alternator.

There are 3 terminals on the back (ODE) side, B+, B- and tach. The tach terminal is smooth, B+ and B- are threaded and labeled. B+ to positive, B- to negative, leave tach alone, only uses on the driver side for diagnostic port. The threaded posts may have colored insulators. B- is on the...

If the connection is tight, leave it be. You mentioned you have a multimeter. Set it for Voltage DC and test the wires to the regulator, key on engine off. Should be front battery voltage for the drivers side alternator with the multimeter negative lead connected to ground. For passenger...

Could be an open fusible link. Either the 8mm red with white (back battery negative, should be 12.5 volts to ground), the regulator sense wire (should be 24+ volts to ground) or the 8mm red wire to the 24 volt bus (again, 24 volts). Measure voltage with batteries connected. Driver side...

Careful, that red with white stripe 8mm wire has 12.5 volts on it at all times. It is connected to the negative terminal of the back battery..which is also connected to the positive terminal of the front battery.