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Here you go. I filmed a short 3ish minute video explaining the concept. (Another quality video professionally filmed...lol) Note: As discussed in this thread, if the draw in your truck is more than 10 AMPS or whatever your multimeter is capable of it will blow that fuse in your multimeter. You...

It's an open circuit until you plug the lighter in, so no, a lighter wouldn't not generally draw power in that state.

I think he is telling you to keep your multimeter and make a resistor out of a foot of 10 AWG copper wire. The cost is however much 1 foot of 10 AWG copper wire is, which is 47 cents at Home Depot...

Go read my edits in my previous post. :)

No. That doesn't read amps. Which is funny because the free ones you get from HF read up to 200mA (although I suspect it will probably cook with the wrong circuit activated on a CUCV). Check to see if any of your friends have one, or ask the people at AutoZone or wherever you go if you can...

If you're reading 12.6 volts between the disconnected negative cable and negative battery post then you haven't set up your multimeter correctly, because we need to see amperage not volts. Does your multimeter have an amperage setting? The video I sent you shows what your multimeter should be...

It's entirely possible that you have a parasitic drain on your battery from something. (Radio or Amplifier for example?) This video will show you how to troubleshoot it. FYI, always start by pulling your radio fuse as the first fuse in this test.

Congrats. You troubleshot everything down to "It's the alternator". Feels good, right? (y)

I’d try another generator if you have one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would make sure that metal is wrapped all the way around the wire and crush it a bit more but once you do that, and it is tight its good with tape. I prefer heat shrink, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So we know power to the regulator through that exciter wire is good. If that is the case, and you still don't see 14.8 coming out of the posts on that generator with the engine running , then it's toast I believe. Odd that someone would have 3 bad generators, especially with one being brand new...

.5 sq mm fusible link is a 20 gauge fusible link. https://www.amazon.com/Pico-5557PT-Universal-Gauge-Fusible/dp/B00030CZV4 I'd go with the 20ft roll of it for the price. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BEL785810

<Bad Post - Deleting> This is not the post you are looking for...

That snapped off so close to the ring terminal, why don't you just strip the wire end and crimp on another ring terminal (I'd probably reopen the one that was on it and try to re-crimp it)? It looks like there is enough wire left to do that. I did another video on testing the plug going into...

:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: I'm dead...

You definitely want that one tight as that is the negative bus bar cable. If you have a washer that will fit over that post you can use it to fill the gap between the nut and the cable connector. Electricity can't complete the circuit if electrons can't get from the Positive side of the power...

I don't think a bus bar "goes bad". It's just a junction so other items in the car can use the batteries without having to have 90 wires connected to the battery posts directly. Your "going back to the last thing I touched before it broke" strategy is a good troubleshooting technique though.

Your alternator won't work with the key turned if that exciter wire is cut. Pull that plug, and test the end of it with the key turned to see if you're getting 12v to it. I'd cut it, strip the wires and reconnect them to see if it solves the problem. If it does just solder them together and...

What alternator does that nicked cable go to?

Your hazard button isn't pushed in is it? Try pushing it in, check all your flashers (especially front left) to make sure they are working, then pull the hazard button back out. If one of them isn't flashing, the bulb is probably bad, or there is a bad ground (clean the flasher bulb sockets)...