Search results

Perfect, glad that they had what you need. I don't have a picture of the "normal" reman tag that we usually see on the side of the block. But it usually has all of the information that Ray mentioned above. I wouldn't be too concerned about it. As long as you're getting the correct size of parts...

Well that tag doesn't tell you much of anything does it? Did you by any chance find out if Sleeman & Hawken has the 1mm oversized pistons?

I seem to remember that they go up to 1.0mm oversize. (.040") But I would ask them.

That would be a question for Sleeman & Hawken. Have you had any correspondence with them yet?

Pictures are always good, thanks. The lower numbers are the build date from what I understand. The /0.750 at the end of the upper number is the oversize. If you look at the manual, the oversize's are in mm. So, .25mm is just under .010" oversize, .50mm is .020" oversize and .75mm (not listed on...

I’m trying to decipher what your numbers are. They don’t quite match what’s in the manual.

Some of us have received great parts support from “Sleeman & Hawken” in the UK. They responded very well to my parts needs. I was blown away with the 3 day shipping time. Email seems to work well with them.

I’ve seen this on a couple of units that I had. One was so bad I had to replace (3) pistons. The rings had seized and the piston skirts were rubbing off on the cylinder walls. I don’t think oil changes or lack there of has anything to do with the discoloration.

That looks correct. It’s a steel plunger rather than a steel ball. I’m not sure about the spring though. Ray will comment on that tomorrow. So, are you still dealing with low compression issues?

Ok, no flat cam lobe here! That’s good. I haven’t seen or heard of any cam issues yet on these Lister Petter engines. One of the other members here has had issues with the oil pump relief valve sticking. It’s an interesting scenario. Because the oil pressure has no place to go, it pumps up the...

That’s good news right there! Your persistence and determination is going to pay off. Some of these units need more than others to get them up and running. It appears that you will have a running unit before too long. Just wondering, did you ever swap holes with the IP’s to see if the problem...

It’s pretty involved to get those IP’s set up correctly isn’t it?

I wish these engines had compression releases to take the strain off of the starter and the batteries while cranking them over to check things like this. But they don't. Hopefully you have a means of keeping the batteries charged up while you're doing this stuff. Also, don't use the dead crank...

The only variable that I can think of is cam lobe height. I don't know why else the shim thickness would be so far off. But for now, we're just trying to figure out why you're not getting any fuel out of #2. So, maybe write down what shim thickness that you originally had under each IP. Then...

Just some more thoughts to hopefully ease your mind. I know that I've mixed up the IP shims on a unit or two, and they still ran. They might not have run as efficient as they should, but none the less they still ran. By swapping those IP's around and cranking the engine over, you should be able...

I neglected to ask. Did this unit have the exhaust stack flap in place when you got it?

Interesting. I wonder how many different IP's were used in these engines? To comment on one of your other posts, it's very common to see a little rust on these IP's. These units may sit unused for long periods of time. Condensation will prevail, especially in high humidity places. Like others...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/posts/2499607/ . https://www.steelsoldiers.com/posts/2499854/ , https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-803-fuel-pump-length-discrepancy.213562/

Don't lose faith! These units are pretty bullet proof. And yes, many times we see units that have been "touched" by the wrong people. There's a ton of help in this forum. There's also a lot of parts available here. Have you kept track of what shims came out of what hole? If you're curious about...

The thickness of the shims under the IP's is for timing purposes only. The amount of shims under the IP's should not make any difference for whether or not the IP will make pressure. The rule of thumb is to reinstall the same shims that came out. The procedure for determining what the shim...