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Yea, looks like the VR is the next teardown and inspect project. If you don't know electronics very well, you might want to find an electronics repair shop to take the VR to, print off and take pages 3-264 through 3-284 with the VR and ask them if they can perform the tests as outlined on those...

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I was out of town until today. On to your problem at hand. Since you've isolated that the meter is working properly, I'm going to assume that there is something keeping the set from producing power properly. My guess is the voltage regulator/static...

Well, I'm glad that you've gotten the fault box put back right at least. You say the frequency is non-responsive. Is your set a MEP-103A on the dataplate or is it a MEP-004A (OR AAS if it has the acoustic kit on it) If it's a MEP-004A, the frequency is adjusted with the manual throttle under...

Yea, I'd give it one good final inspection and bolt it back in. Doublecheck all the connections to make sure the canon plugs are tight. Push them in, tighten the ring, then push it in again and try to tighten the ring again until they are seated good and tight. Later, Joe

You should have 24V at P12-A regardless of what the ground is doing because you're grounding the multimeter separate of the plug. But, the ground for the fault box runs from P12-B through wire P66A to P6-B then to the DC Relay Assembly terminal 3 which is in the control box. Inside the relay...

Sure, here's an extract of that circuit. The red line is the path from S2-3 to the fault panel (A9). It shows all the components that the power passes through on the way. So to make sure I'm understanding, you tested for continuity between J2-R and P6-A and there is continuity? While you've got...

Ok, that's a good start. We can eliminate S2 and TB1 from the problem list. I am working on FO-1 Sheet 4 and 3. 4 has the switch and everything to J1, then it switches to Sheet 3 for P1 On the path of electrical flow, you have J1 which is the large cannon plug on the back of the control panel...

Ok, A is the power side of that circuit, so we need to follow that wire back until we get to the problem. It should have power anytime that S2 is in RUN and the CB1 DC breaker is closed. *ALL TESTS ARE DONE WITH THE CB1 BREAKER CLOSED AND S2 IN RUN* Find Terminal Board 101, screw 11 (Wire P45J...

The mystery wires are on FP3 in the lower left hand side. Look for TH1, which is what is supposed to be connected to those wires. It is a part of the winterization/heater kit for the unit. If the unit didn't have the kit installed, it won't be used. As far as reading the diagrams, it's like...

You need to get the correct potentiometer first and foremost... that will let your voltage adjust properly. The disassembly and testing of the fault indicator panel is located in the -34 in section 3-138. You're going to have to pull it apart and troubleshoot why the indicator panel is not...

Did you check the wiring between the rheostat and VR? If the rheostat burned up, there might have been a short in the wiring that is now an open. Check wires X9H (printed on the wire itself), X82A and B, X80B, and X90A. Should be easy to spot as it will probably be burned up, check anywhere the...