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Re: Heater DUCTS Have not been using the deuce much since last October, but the two tank system worked well last winter, when it was tested down to about 20°F. Used it throughout the cross country trip with up to 80% veggie oil in the main heated tank. The fuel lines and the primary filter are...

Thanks for the input Mike, but Memphis does not have the boots and NAPA may have the tubular portion of the duct works, but hardly the diverter or nozzle parts, typically shown here.

Thanks Kenny, if I had the funds, I'd stock up on all the parts for this rarther rare piece of equipment. It's the little things that will be a problem, such as steering knuckle boots and ducts for the heating system etc.

Almost at the end of this thread. Installed all links this afternoon, after all ball joints were nice and smoth. The caps were sealed and primed, for painting later. I can now turn the steering wheel with very little effort with both front axles on blocks. :-) Still need to chase a couple of...

This drawing shows all the ball joints.

Last ball joint, number 11, will be done around midnight tonight. I'm doing the ones on the pwr steering cylinder without disconnecting the hydraulics (see image). The procedure is very effective, had one on the front drag link peg the indicator on my torque wrench, which is about 140 ft-lb and...

rofl

Pulled ball joint #8 out of the hot oil bath a while ago. They all turn with less than 10 ft-lb of torque now, a far cry from the 70 or so. Still have 3 of them to go.... Mark, thanks for the lead, but doesn't look like I'll need replacements any longer.

Pulled the tie rod from the oil bath a while ago and it's as smooth as the first one. Easy to turn by hand and very tight. I do wonder how they were when they left the assembly line 37 years ago... As far as penetrants, the one end of the tierod that I did yesterday had been soaked for a couple...

A tierod cook-out. :-) It's suspended from the ceiling and only the ball joint is in the oil. The cap of the ball joint housing is drilled as shown earlier and there are tiny bubbles emerging from the 1/8" hole. The oil is about 280°F and I let it "cook" for 4 hours. Later, the hole will be...

Hmm, good, if it's still as nice and smooth tomorrow, I'll prepare one more for lunch then. At room temp now it feels real tight and smooth and I can turn it by hand. This is so great!

YES! After cooking one of the tierod ends in motor oil for 4 hours at 275°F, it was loose enough to turn by hand! [thumbzup] Hope it stays this way after cooling down. 4 hours may be a little long, but I turned on the cooker with the thermostat set at 275 and went shopping, forgetting about...

The image below shows all the joints in the steering system. There are 13 of them, of which only 2 are lubed with zerks. They don't all have to move the same amount during a turn, but they all resist movement and that's substantial in this case. 5 lubed for life joints are replaceable with what...

David, the FSN is 2530-045-1949 as shown in image title above, and the NSN should be 2530-00-045-1949, since it was prior to Sept 30, 1974.

Will, I'm pretty sure they will be an issue. Two other owners of this vehicle has had or still have the problem. I have seen spec for ball joints suggesting that they turn with only 5 to 10 ft-lb, these are ten times as stiff. The power steering can probably handle it, but the wheels would...

Cutting them open would only expose the dry lube lining. This is what Masoner (Oklahoma) did with one. The image shows the lining, not much one could do with it. The penetrants didn't make it through after ten days. NAPA may not have this size, but the ones I looked at were very similar, only...

This is what the tie rod end looks like, removed one today. The ones used for the 5-ton M923 and M39 series trucks are different. The view of the cap shows the 1/8" hole I drilled to soak the ball, which had no effect after ten days. The ball is approx 1/4 inch below the cap. Because of the...

The truck was built by Ford, "Tractor Division", so probably the chassis portion also. Yes, I drilled the 1/8" holes in the caps to access the balls directly.

After nine days of soaking the tierod ends in CLP and "Heat Valve Lubricant" without any significant change, I'm now beginning a search for commercial replacements. The stud part seems to have metric threads (24 mm, in this case), is metric standard for these parts?

Andy, the biggest problem in problem solving is being able to define the problem properly. :-)