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You're Welcome.

I'm guessing the solenoid is bad. My theory: :idea: With the engine warm, it causes the coil in the solenoid to expand just enough to create an open circuit, therefore no magnetic field is created to pull in and actuate the valve. When the motor is cold, the coil is intact and will create that...

Just grabbin' at straws here, after doing your horn kit, did you re-make the connection at the bottom of the steering column? That would be your ground to your horn solenoid. Also, using your meter, test continuity from chassis ground to the wire that goes up the column, while pressing the horn...

You are correct.

Solennoid: Between the trumpets of the horn. Circuit Breaker: On the firewall above the steering shaft. You have ordered the correct part. Sorry for any confusion.

Thanks for the clarification DH. Earlier in the thread I did explain to Tin C/B troubleshooting.

Hey Tin, To troubleshoot the circuit breaker, unplug both wires and check for continuity. 0 or an Ohm or two would be an appropriate reading. OL on the meter is not, replace the C/B. This will be what you need. It's probably not a bad idea to have one for a spare. 15amp

Check the circuit breaker up on the firewall. Pull both leads out of the breaker, check them with a VOM, one of them should be hot, if so, breaker is bad. If not, dig further back to the source. Download Peter Bog's schematic, if you haven't already.