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I have plenty of physical mass and it isn't muscle, and was the most difficult item for me too. I replaced all mine when one failed.

Think i got mine at northern tool. Not really necessary if you follow the TMs on where to pound on the bracket but can be helpful.

No worries, the axle will just flop around and the shackle at the front of the spring will crush the brake line..... Ask me how I know. Luckily it happened pounding gopher mounds in my backyard. :) Mine was worn bushings though. Let me know what you find out please. I torqued all mine to 375...

Very strange, why would they suddenly drop the torque value by 200 ftlbs? Got me wondering what the right torque is now. The manual Michael cited supercedes the previous I assume? BTW If anyone needs crow foot wrenches to torque the upper axle torque rod nuts and the ubolt nuts, Oreilly auto...

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/TM9-2320-209-20-3-2.PDF Considering the torque it took to remove mine(needed a cheater bar in addition to the breaker bar to remove), I know they weren't 200 ftlbs! Very strange. One manual has them 200 ftlbs more. Maybe mine are overtorqued...

. I had to take the leaf spring top off. Took a suggestion, use a small sledge held against the end/nut even with the end and smack the smaller sledge with a 10 or 12 lb sledge, they pop right out. Torque for all the rod nuts is350-400 ftlbs

How did you get the upper centers out? I'm having a **** of a time.