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oh baby, that is almost as good as free cold beer that is brought to you by a topless pole dancer working to buy babyfood.

Well i learned something new today. the SCU is the same for the 400 and 50/60 hz motor, I guess that makes sense, its only controlling the motor, has nothing to do with the generation side

Guy did a very detailed write up about how to use the parts manual (TM) and how to use the UOC (user on code?) I cannot find it but everyone needs to learn how to use that part of the manual. ok this is the crash course of UOC's, in the front of the manual it says LTX is 50/60hz and LTY is...

Did you disconnect the batteries when you pulled the cubical off? have the batteries been disconnected since reinstalled and start attempts? another thread to read, doesnt apply to starting but does apply to the computer side of this genny...

the speed control unit, thru the backplane. 1st guess would be connection between the scu and the backplane. 2nd, my uneducated cant put my hands on it guess is.... a pot took a crapola, because a 200lb gorilla with a skrew driver wearing green coveralls was dinkering where he shouldnt have...

Did you exercise the rheostats? Up down to clean our any dust dirt rocks, i think I remember 5 on that box

Are any of the rheostats set to 0 on the speed control unit? Remember they only operate from 7oclock postion to about 4oclock. I would note where they are now, and attempt to adjust any and all. you checked ohms from p5 to mpu, did you check ohms form p5 to actuator? p5 o to red, p5 y to white

Do you think he could have a loose connector on the back of the cubical? or the speed control unit not making good contact to the back plane, but the other stuff works on the speed control. If it were my ginger, I would take the cubical off, take the backplane out, remove and inspect the speed...

what happens if you start it with the hot wire, then connect the original wire on the actuator? does it stay running? did you check the ohms on the actuator? says 7.8 ohms for 24v.

Manual also stated .. to troubleshoot, measure resistance across both wires, so yep, one is hot and one is not.... swings both ways so it doesnt matter which wire goes where.

What did you do? replace the connectors on the actuator wires? or read thru the thread on my ginger jenny? or push the reset button after the switch is in the start run position?

I wired both of mine white to white, then whatever the other is together. EDIT I was mistaken on what you were asking for. White wire, 14v on start, 10.2v on run Red/black, 0v on start, .2v on run All measurements with black to ground on actuator, not to block or battery. I am assuming on...

I normally have to hit the fault reset 2 times, because I have done it backwards since I started working on them, I added the start video to reply, I even do it wrong on the video, but it wont wear out that switch any faster having to click it twice

Baxter, yes I did have unusual issues on #2, its the one I currently have in the stables. Jim, have your read thru this thread on an 805b? https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?164332-2-MEP-805B-oh-the-joys&highlight=

I just cycled thru mine watching the light inside the cabin, and the actuator light does not light if you forget to push the fault reset button. I fubu'ed on that myself this morning, so that might be something else to look at. Master on, wait for cim to boot, rotary switch to prime run, then...

my .02, I had 'one of those' also, she needed a new plug going to the actuator, the rubber spacers had fallen out and wouldnt maintain contact. I think that is the jenny that M35A2-AZ has now. After the flywheel sensor is adjusted correctly, then look at the plug for the actuator.