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Thanks Jerry...I just got done soldering the capacitor connection--a hard feat trying to solder to a "nub" of wire but it finally got a good hold..using my neighbor's small 35 watt it took awhile to get enough heat to do anything....anyway, I'm getting 27.1 volts at the batteries...don't have a...
You're quite welcome...I'm just happy to get the thing removed with no injuries and no damage. Just got back in from the shop after reading the stator AC output at 1800. Reading was 40-45 volts. I know TM says 30-35 VAC, so is too much AC at this point a problem? Could not do a check with...
Understood about the fine thread bolts, but this unit had 5/16" x 18 TPI as found. The TM says these should have been 24 TPI, but someone in the past tapped to the NC thread or maybe this one came from the factory that way?? Who knows. The GR8s I was using originally were bending with each...
Thanks Speddmon--Everyone's help on the SS site was invaluable. Next one I have to do will go quicker than this one. I believe the increase in the bolt size to 3/8" made the difference--at least I knew they wouldn't break so I probably pulled harder on the wrench...I'm hopeful I'll get some...
I believe I made original measurements with the stator lines still connected, but this has been such a long process, I'm not 100% certain. For today's check I'll test 1st time with the leads disconnected & the 2nd time connected to their terminals. WRT meter accuracy, I used my old analog unit...
So I'm hoping the gunk on the magnets & rust on the steel cores (not heavy but surface rust) was enough to reduce the 30+ VAC to 16 VAC that I measured while running earlier this week. Will reinstall this afternoon & retest output while running. Praying for good numbers...
Here's some pictures of the removed wheel & stator. All photos after cleaning up gunk off stator & off rear of wheel. Tested leads on stator as follows: lead-to-lead about 0.7 ohms. No continuity between either lead and ground. Laminated core 100% continuity to ground--hoping this is...
Grega--used the impact yesterday but that's when I had the 5/16" bolts...tonight I didn't want to run the air compressor late & disturb neighbors, so I used the breaker bar and hammer-on-puller method. With the larger 3/8" bolts (suggested by Jerry) I felt more comfortable pulling hard on the...
OK Jerry--this time the wheel surrendered...had it up to about 180 degrees...puller (with 3/8" GR 8 bolts) maxed out...about 5 good licks with the machinist hammer on the end of the puller and she jumped off the shaft like a frog...traveled about 2 feet and thankfully landed in the hay with no...
Is it better to continue a thread that's a couple weeks old or to start a new one? I don't know...I'm new here. Is there a rule about not starting new threads unless the subject changes? If so, my mistake.
Blower removal misery continues MEP002A
I took storeman's advice and made another attempt pulling the blower wheel on our "Unit #2" today.
Even called in a retired outside machinist (which I used to do in my shipyard days many years ago) to observe/assist. When he saw the setup we had (heavy...
Yep--that's exactly what I plan to do. Your sticky post is clear & well written. Thanks for writing it & posting. Will use it working on the next one today....:smile:
Thanks--For this unit, if the DC charging system works (after I repair the fuse connection) I'll be leaving it alone and the next unit will be my test for pulling the wheel...it too is not charging. But as Speddmon mentioned I still need to run through the basic troubleshooting steps.
Yep--that's exactly right, it was a solargizer...it reads abt 4v DC under a flourescent trouble light, but that's only when I read it without the black box connected (or directly off the solar panel wiring). This one had a splice inside the blower housing that I had to disconnect in order to...
Speddmon, Happy to answer & I appreciate you weighing in....the washer was still on but I backed the bolt out about 3 threads or so. Approx 1/4" free movement or "end play" for the wheel to move toward puller. Even while the puller was "pegged" I could grab the thick washer and move it in &...
OK I officially surrender...puller maxed out with impact wrench (can't turn any tighter with a 1/2" breaker bar), puller squealing even with lube on the threads and face of crankshaft, spray lubed key-way area, heated wheel to 140 degrees and hit the back of the wheel with a 2# machinist hammer...