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Sweat to the oldies. Enjoy !

J-29162, Installer, Yoke Seal 5737530 4910-01-179-5530

Stay under 70 moh and your truck wont shake.

Again. I only move the outer rim half. In relation to the inner half. When replacing tires, i use the runflat tool. It is under $40 delivered on epay.

Each rim half can be a little out of balance. Turning just the outer fixed mine. The older rims used centering washers to get the halves lined up.

Just pop the front of the rim and turn it. Put it back on. I use a small pry bar and work around tmthe bead a couple times until it breaks free. Prybar works on both sides. But i previously stated to just rotate the outer rim piece. Leave the rest alone. I do runflats by myself, too.

I have only done one wheel in the air at a time. I just put mine in OD like normal driving. The tires on the ground will not move. Leave the transfer case in H. If you do transfer case in HL or LL, the truck will move. You can just park it with a tree against the bumper if you feel uneasy...

Incorrect caster can result in front end shaking at higher speeds. like a shopping cart. If you see an employee in the grocery lot looking at a cart funny, give him a hand full of washers, and he can have the easiest job. Back to your truck... You can raise the tire you are checking and secure...

If you drop the tank, i find it easier to disconnect the wiring at rear between fuel tank and muffler. if you remove the sender, it only goes in one way. Thebolt holes are not evenly spaced. there is a big vent line that runs through the body, above the driveshaft. when putting tank back in...

yes. I use the plastic seal installers. Jobs can be much easier when you have the right tool.

Use a shop vac....

Are you taking these readings with rpm at idle or at normal driving rpm?

Newer manuals are restricted access.

There is an access panel on the tunnel to get to top of fuel tank. If it is the big rectangle seal under the metal plate, drop the tank to replace. I remember reading somewhere not to fill it up. the access panel may be under your rear evaporator, near the RH rear seat.

The rubber seals on top of the splash guards should be leaning out away from the radiator. The metal tabs hold it up against bottom of hood. Bend those tabs towards the tire.

You told them that yours is longer. 😆 As for the nut you can’t reach. I can, and that us how i remove the splash shield. I guess you could unbolt the bracket instead. Then the other 2 bolts across the bottom of shield, and one (forward) of the 2 bolts by the air filter. Remove the 4 bolts at the...

Yup, radiators that go in the turbo H1 are not the same length as the ECV turbo HMMWV. So if you call a company and look for a radiator for a turbo HMMWV, you may end up with a shorty. Some folks dont know the difference between humvee and H1.

That is your block heater. I have the part number for the cable, but can't access it now.

I must just get confused a lot from getting old ,,, but if you currently get 70 mph at 2700 rpm, how in the world do you think you can get 88 mph at 2500 rpm just by turning up the fuel on the IP? Unless you change gearing somewhere, the faster you go, the rpm will continue to increase, not...