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Yup, I converted to the Blue Hummer locking spindle nut kits. Pricey, but, pretty bulletproof design... I see Predator now makes 'heat sinks' for their hub cover plates.... SUPER $$, but shows that these things do heat up (although I don't know why you would spend $500/ wheel on those things...

I used the tech manual for this... tighten spindle nut to 35-45 ft-lbs , rotate spindle 5-times CW, 5 times CCW, loosen nut, retighten to 23-27 ft-lbs. I put both the left & the right hub nuts on to the upper end of the spec (27ft-lbs), but as I said above, I thought i'd try the low end on one...

OK here's the info......... Conditions: Lucas Hub Oil (the really thick stuff) New bearings, seals, etc on both rear hubs, all torques to spec (high end) and shims / end play is perfectly in spec. Never checked (yet) front hub bearings, etc (just changed oil so far) Ambient temp = 94 F (at...

Good thinking. I have a Fluke thermocouple probe I can check it with. I'll post something soon measuring from both sides (center of the exposed hub area looking at the wheel & on the backside - center of the where the tie-rod link cover is) Maybe after a 10min drive & 30min drive readout. All-4...

I'm gonna try to retorque the main wheel hub nut & use the lowest value I can get away with and see if that does any good. (I'm at the upper torque spec limit now) but advise still welcome.aua

Hey, I had a rear hub that was getting hot... too hot to hold your hand on the tie-rod connecting plate on the back for more than 10 secs. Jacked up, wheel didn't rotate too easily. Ripped it apart, replaced all bearings, races & seals. There was only 1-thin shim previously on the upper...