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The purpose of the open hub method is that you actually get to measure it directly. You measure it, and know exactly how it stands. The TM method is a theoretical "dead reckoning". You take it apart, measure all the parts, add them up mathematically, and the answer should be close to how it...

With either hub tool (machined old hub or 3D printed), it's just letting you take the measurements with it actually assembled in the hub. The "old way" is that you measure the parts outside the hub, and calculate what size they will be when assembled. So if you do it well, there is no...

I printed one, but haven't used it. My hubs were running ok, so I haven't tried changing the shims. If you want to pay to ship it, I'll send you the one I have, for you to try out.

I printed a thin section of the whole shape, and held it up to the real metal cover to verify bolt hole accuracy. Looks pretty good. I also printed a single pin-cap section about 3" wide, with a reinforcement "X" over the pin cutout, at 80% infill density. The thing is stupid strong... you...

I don't know. I'll start fairly minimized, like in the picture. If it flexes, I'll add reinforcement ribs, and try again. If that doesn't work, I'll fill the area over the pins in solid, and it will be quite strong.

Pretty accurately. I have a part here on my desk (the inclinometer mount, from my other post) that is modeled at 6.900" wide, and the printed part measures 6.887" (0.013" undersized, across a nearly 7" span). Another face across it that is at an awkward angle (more challenging to print...

Not having done this myself before... 1.) Why would you want to not have the o-rings on? 2.) Why would you only need 2, and not 4, caps? I have one of the stock metal caps with the face milled off. That's what I measured to make this. Here is a truncated one, to fit my printer (8" across...

I think we're thinking the same thing. Are you saying that since we probably only need to use the holes marked in red, I'm free to cut away at the unmarked holes to get it to fit on the printer? I only need to knock 0.2" minimum off, or something like 0.5-0.75" would be better. That looks about...

I have one of the hub covers that has been machined down, for use in setting up the hub shims. I figured I'd design a 3D printed variant, so that people weren't always having to buy/make/mail the metal kind. I haven't printed one yet, but here's what I have so far. I'm going to do some work on...