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When you take the hose off the caddy valve , the hose will have enough fluid in it to perform the duty.
when you put air to the line you should see the fan move forward.
have you followed this whole thread?
Caddy valve is going to be hot depending on how long your engines been running.
If you unplug the caddy valve does your fan move forward?
I wouldn't disconnect at the clutch. Follow the hose from the clutch back to the caddy value next to the washer fluid. Disconnect there and apply air. Honestly I didn't loose any fluid.
I did both. First mallet a day ago then air ,nothing....Then I got pissed and hooked up to air again and gave her 25 and pow she's golden.
thanks guys for the suggestions!
Ok guys before I put air to the system I could not stop the fan. Now after putting air to the system about 25 times she works!!!!!!
I bet the fan was just sitting for awhile and needed the air multi times to free up.
So I applied air and clutch works and fan spins with ease. So am I not developing enough pressure in my system to let the fan free wheel? Here is a video.
If I unplug the module at high idle like I said it does move the 1/4" or so and move a tinny bit more air... The fan howels through out all RPMS from 100 degrees-200 degrees without being engaged... My opinion is the fan is semi working by engaging but not complete diengaging.
I'm going to put a new module and thermostatic switch in. If thats not it then I'll have spares.
I really think it's going to be the fan clutch pack tho...
what doesn't make sense to me is that when I unplug the module my fan moves forward the 1/4" and moves a (tad) more air... but my fan is...
No sir it's not normal... My fan runs at 85% all the time until I hit 215 and it make a tinny bit more noise. I really need to figure this shot out! It's bugging me the death!
I know these aren't power house engines but the fan running all the time is killing my power...
It takes my truck 16...
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