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It's been over 2 months since my last update, and I have been busy with the truck and other things. Since my last post, I have solved the screeching belts by replacing and correctly tightening them. I have checked every electrical connection I can see and most of them are loose or rusty crusty...

Update, my buddy came through a week early and I replaced the switch and re-checked all my connections. The beast roared to life, but it was choking, with a rough idle. I'm still going over the electrical system, because I'm not sure I've ruled everything yet. On an earlier response to this post...

Thank you Robo McDuff, I have been looking for an something like this since all this began. As for what is the purpose of the PCB box on a war-time truck? I have no idea. I would like to know this myself.

I can't bypass my battery disconnect that way. Mine has four leads , three of which run into the PCB. Mine is worn out! I was going to replace it with a new one sometime in the future, but for $20 dollars, I can't say no to the weekend after next. Here is picture of the same switch my truck...

I've already printed a copy of the wiring diagram form the tech manual. I would like to get my copy laminated. LOL We've followed it down from the ignition switch, to the kill switch. The Battery cut-off switch feels as if it is mechanically loose on the inside. This could account for another...

I'm scraping the too many amps thought, but my old battery cables had serious corrosion all through out them. Not to mention the sheathing had been rubbed of in several places. I have since fixed this. That should have remedied any symptoms that would have caused, unless some of the components...

I can't get any pictures to LOAD!! That is just as frustrating as the PCB!!

That sounds like a better idea, and I'm starting to not like the PCB. Before I replace the starter with a gear reduction and all that stuff, I'm going to check and verify everything else. If it's just the PCB and it needs replaced, or rebuilt if possible then I'll do that first. The only reason...

Update: Ok guys, every test I did pointed to the solenoid being bad so I replaced the solenoid. To my surprise, the new solenoid is acting just like the old one. After looking at the wiring diagram in the tech manual, my father and I have narrowed the problem down three things, 1st, The...

I'm not sure which one your talking about. I do know the terminal on the front of the starter is negative to the battery, and the outside terminal on the solenoid is the positive to the battery. The other solenoid terminal connects directly to the starter. I don't know or see anywhere else to...

If it is just bridging a screwdriver across the terminals, then yeah. I will have to find my pick, so I can chip off a few layers of CARC. That stuff is on everything.

First of Many Updates. Since the Holidays are over I can now start back working on the Beast. I have replaced ALL of the Battery cables with 0/3 gauge cable, new clamps, ring terminals and both of the battery boxes. I've cleaned all points of contact too, and I'm still having the same problems...

I was going to ask if I need to replace the water pump seal or not. As I understand it, to adjust the belt tension I have to loosen the water pump then rotate it until the belt is tight enough. I'm not familiar with this type of pump or belt tightening system. I don't know if this would disturb...

Ok, I'll have to get a good digital meter. When the engine was running, the voltage meter in the truck showed right on the mark, in the green where it says good. It was our assumption that the alternator is good, but I'm not ruling anything out as of yet. If my regulator is bad, can the...

Update, We have solved the No-Start problem. It turns out 2 of the battery cables going over to the solenoid/starter have some serious corrosion in, under the sheathing. I've put a temp cable on it and the beast fires right up! I'm going to replace those cable and battery terminal clamps with...

No, replacing the battery fixed another underlying issue. I still don't, can't get that click of the solenoid when I turn the ignition switch. I do have a keyed ignition switch from those military guys, so when I install that sometime over the holidays, I'm wanting to trace that issue to it's roots.

Now that the battery problem is figured out, what does anyone know about this stuff? I was told the white crud in my tank is probably algae. WTF, I have algae growing in my tank!! I was also told that cummins make something that gets rid of it and, this algae can clog up fuels lines and filters...

Ok, I've checked my batteries and have determined the little civy battery is bad. The 8D is good. Now here is part of the battery problem solved, I have another 8D that is also good. Can the M818 handle two 8D batteries? The other problem I'm having with the batteries is that they are too tall...

I know the batteries are another issue, a BIG issue. The previous owner had it wired up this way, but now I own it and want to change it. I'm looking into another 8D or 2 smaller ones like it, maybe a 6D. I really don't care as long as it can function properly, and the cover steps fit over them...

Before anyone say's anything, these are the batteries that where in the truck when I bought is. The batteries did not make contact with anything and the connections are good. The batteries are too tall for the cover to even fit over them. I know they are not correct, but the truck would start...