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Waiting on seller to give me the tag #s still present on that sub bundle so I can determine just how much needs spliced on and where they go. I'm about ready to just pull the trigger on it, then worry about splicing it when it gets here. I let Kevin drive it around about an hour after we...
The buyer stopped by yesterday to test drive it again, and we found the electrical problem by accident. After I had checked the voltage on the starter switch I guess I crossed the two hot Packard connectors. Kevin was under the battery box tracing the sub harness assembly of black nylon mesh...
The #6 cable is the one I moved when pop riveted the L angle aluminum pieces on the outboard side to use J bolts and flat bars for hold downs. It was routed under the shunt, I unbolted it from the Positive anchor bolt, re routed it over top the shunt to make room for the J bolt and wing nut...
The new jumper cable, Napa didn't have #0 but had next larger #1 sized cable. I used flux core solder to attach the copper eyes.
The only cable leaving the battery box from the Positive anchor lug is Cable tagged #6 and it goes directly to the big lug on the 200amp alternator.
Edit...
I have the 14/28v 200amp alternator installed, put a replacement voltage regulator on it last month, its run since then before I removed the batteries to clean, prime and coat the battery box. The priming and coating I didn't even do yet because of the rain. So all I did was get a piece of...
Maybe that's the issue, I think I might have routed the dables with a positive to the red lug, my terminal insulators are Red for Positive, Black for Negative, afterall, right?
Replaced Battery Cables: Short in Negative SubHarness to Starter & Engine
Edit: The buyer stopped by yesterday to test drive it again, and we found the electrical problem by accident. After I had checked the voltage on the starter switch I guess I crossed the two hot Packard connectors...