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Well I put it all back together this weekend. Drive side went smooth, passenger side handle didn't go well. The metal that pivots broke, and it looks like it was weak already because it didn't take much. I will now need to source a new handle.

Here is the box I constructed for the truck with a 12v outlet, meter, and 2 USB slots. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BXTX11Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 & https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T7RPFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The only thing holding all this together is a small pin through the cam. Use a small punch to get it out.

Here are the handles broken down. What I did was took the wedges out of the lock mechanism and there's a number on each one. Then I got a couple blank ilco keys and I nailed it in the first key cut. Here are some pictures of what I did. I only cut one side to see if the cuts were the right...

I've been slacking on pictures. So far I've adding a box with 12v outlets and usb. I have also added a backup camera with the 7" screen. This morning I took out the door locks and I'm making some keys for them. Getting a lot done!

Ill post some pictures later. But I want to thank Will (Suprman) for all the help and encouragement to get it going. For the past week I put the hammer down and spent hours upon hours after work working on it, and It feels good to have it all pay off!

After work I went home and did a once over while running to check everything and even played with the air/hydraulic systems. Everything is working smooth. I tested CTIS and even that system is functioning beautifully. I got in the truck and took it for a spin around the neighborhood. The first...

Problem solved. Truck is up and running.

Problem I have now is the truck will crank but won't start. I tried to hand pump but it won't get stiff.

Problem #2 solved.

Looks like the issue is going to be fixed. Problem One: K2 relay chattered when master switch flipped. Voltage dropped from 12.41 to just under 6v with the switch on. Solution: Verify your batteries. I dropped mine off at O'reilly's and they charged and tested them. He said they were good but...

I always have the M998 haha

No 24v. I tested the 12 and that reads fine.

Wired a ground for the trans controller. Tested all the relays on a bench. Then checked voltage coming to the relay board and I'm not getting 24v, but I have 12v.

So the truck is setup for WTEC 2 but the relay and harness is missing. See K26 in picture. It's the wtec2 neut start relay.

Here's what I'm working with. When the dash in laying flat and I put the controller into the slot I don't find any holes lining up.

Well I'm back in the cab with the unit and I don't see how it's supposed to bolt it. Does the dash bolt down first, then you hook up the two rear connectors and the keypad just sits there. Maybe I'm missing a bracket to bolt the keypad to the dash.

This could solve the issue, Unit is NOT bolted to anything and is just sitting there with the dash plate over it, and that wasn't bolted down either.

Just got an email, and it's good news and bad news. Good news is, he tested it all yesterday and it operates fine. Bad news is somehow during my DVOM testing I misdiagnosed this part. Back to following the TM again and this time I'm going to take my time so I don't miss anything.

I called and confirmed they have received it and will take a look. Should hear something by Friday. When I hear back I'll ask if they buy cores.