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Mike got a taste of Carolina blue on sat too :twisted:

Clear Carolina blue skies and 65 F. Not a bad weekend.

Another weekend and not much done. I used my M998 to help flip the trailer frame over to grind some spots and to begin on the welding process with the new frame. The photos taken below were while flipping it, I didn't actually work on it like that.

Small update: Didn't work on the trailer much this weekend but I did sell the old axles, springs, u-bolts, and the front a-frame for $170 which almost pays for all the new metal I am about to buy. Trying to keep the project cost down [thumbzup]

I guess I can elaborate about the intended use a little more. So I love having a trailer and I share with my family who uses it sometimes as well to pickup 20' lumber or metal. First an foremost I need a trailer for hauling, and my non-deckover just didn't fit the bill. Once done this will suit...

No worries, thread is still on topic. :lol:

When pricing a 7500# 20' deckover trailer the prices were anywhere from 3000-3600 for a basic trailer. Bumper pull, tandem, brakes on both, wood decking, brand new and I just couldn't see spending that much. I owned a 18' car trailer before this and I hated the wheel wheels in the way. Center of...

Got one last year! [thumbzup]

My idea isn't to make the shelter permanent so I can move it around to find the best position. Right now 110% of my focus is on the trailer rebuild itself and shelter second. It may just come down to keeping this as a normal trailer and using the M720 dolly I picked up for the camper setup.

Clean metal is always nice. The metal on this isn't bad, just some surface rust but still in great shape. As far as the new parts, everything will be replaced other than the original frame. List of items I have bought new, spring hangers, springs, axles, axle flip kit to put spring above axle...

A new 7k deckover is 3k locally. I'll have less than half when I'm done with it and it's exactly the way I want it. The other thing is I built it myself, and there's something to be said about that.

I have been working hard at this thing and inally got the A-frame off. Only took about a thousand cut off wheels.

HAHA you and I both. I will say they look bad, but they were a PITA to take off. Whoever welded the trailer welded them on good, and with extra steel. The reason for the length is so the tires won't rub on the wood decking they had. With the frame I'm adding I'll be using normal hangers.

Couple pictures as I worked on it this weekend. I took off the old axle hangers, and started on the front A-frame. I got a bunch of parts today in the mail so I can't wait to start using new stuff.

Been a busy weekend. I got all the old axle hangers off and almost finished removing the a-frame. I have called my local metal shop and will pickup 2.5" x 4 box frame. Two 20' pieces will run down the sides underneath the bed that's already there and tie into the new front a-frame. Pretty much...

The problem with the shelter is the fact it has "skids" on the bottom and I was just going to mount it with cables like they do on an LMTV sitting on top of the wood. As of right now the A-frame will be redesigned to extend to the sides and to go further into the main frame. I will also be...

I didn't really think to use the wood for structure until someone brought it up. This will be towed with my F150 ecoboost and LMTV. The front attachment will be a c-channel where you can mount a pintle or a normal 2 5/16" (adjustable height). Loaded weight (including trailer weight) will be...

Thanks for the advice on the floor boards. I planned on replacing the brackets that support the axle. The spring perch is inches away from the brake flange, which is inches away from the wheel hub. The tire sits closer to the inside rail than it does to the outside.

See attached. I hope this shows how far the A-frame goes into the frame, it's not very far. If making the A-frame wider and bringing it to the rails and down the frame will be the biggest improvement I'll make it happen. Also someone mentioned axles, mine are very narrow as you can see in the...

EDIT: T-chan is actually an I-beam. Sorry for the confusion. You are correct with the c-chan. I think what gimp recommended will be the biggest structural improvement by extended the a-frame to the sides and have it come further down the trailer. I just took two pictures of it and will upload...