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Yes, but not recommended. The intank pump is the lift pump and makes 5-7 psi to get it to the mechanical booster pump which makes the real pressure. It will run without the electric pump, but not as well, and not at all if you get an air leak in a line. The electric pump is nice for bleeding air...
I'm having the same issue with my newly acquired truck. Might also be the shutoff not opening all the way.
Stick a fuel pressure gauge in the rearward bleeder hole on top of the filters, it's 1/8" pipe thread.
EDIT: Shoulde be about 30-40 psi at idle and 70-80 at full throttle.
Wow, smacking myself in the forehead. Dunno how I missed this thread. I have an A1 and A1 fever, I'm always digging around looking for info on them...I get a kick out of tracking down all the little differences. I intend to eventually do a definitive A1 thread with all the info in one place...
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