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I have found over the years of building engines that once you get the engine running and you know its OK, get a load on it. Its especially important for the top ring to have plenty of pressure on it to get it to seat in the bore. You have a limited amount of time after a hone to get this done...

Is there any way you can put some cleaner in a small container and soak the switch?

Ug. Hate to hear that but now you know.

With the 12 leads from the generator head disconnected test between each winding and the others. Also test between each winding and ground. As example test between T1 and T2. Test between T1 and ground. All should be open circuits.

And also to ground.

I mistakenly put S6 in my post above (corrected). You should be working on S8.

One other thing to check is where the wires go down to the generator head. I’ve had a couple of units showing chafing against sharp edges.

If you disconnect everything I'd test all the windings. Make sure they meet spec on resistance and aren't shorted together. From there you can choose whether to go back with the reconnect switch or make the voltage config permanent.

I would check all the wires on the reconnect switch (edit -S8 ) and see if they are in the right places.

Nice! I’m looking at either a 2038r or a 3039r. Right now I have a 4200 but I need a loader and haven’t been able to fine one to fit it.

I’m shopping for one now. Planning to buy my “forever” tractor.

On a side note which model tractor do you have there?

That is normal behavior. The load meter is calibrated with a power factor of 0.8. It will read low when loaded with a resistive load.

Telephones can't capture those kinds of sounds well. The machines are coming together!

In case you'd like a reference for a good running 802. I just went over and shot this video of the one I have at the off grid property. This unit was recently load banked at 125% and did great.

Then I think you found it. The more I look I see references to 100 amp and 50 amp under the same part number. lets see if I can remember that it’s a 50 amp. :)

That looks like it. Does the relay you have indicate it’s 50 amp or 100 amp? When I look at the part number the references I see indicate 100 amp.

That is a 100 amp rated relay with a 24v coil. Should be able to cross that over to something else that will fit. I did find a couple but they are over $250.

I use a little WD40 to get one to light off. Ether is fine too but I think wd40 is a little more gentle. Even if it doesn't start you'll see when it gets to the cylinders in the exhaust.

Nothing like mother nature to provide some motivation! :) Nice to see you back working on those sets.