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Dude.. That is WAY too much to be typing with a virtual keyboard. WOW. What I have written below is not an attempt to convince you to change what you are doing. It is an explanation of why things have evolved to where they are today. A couple of things from your post above. Neutrals.. They...

Yea, I understand that. If removing the jumper makes that possible then there is a wiring fault somewhere. The chassis should remain grounded in a 4 wire system if the jumper is removed.

Please understand that I'm not telling you what to do. All I'm doing is trying to explain the framework of the rules. The choice to follow them is 100% in your court. I do have a concern with one of your comments. If there is something that allows for a hot chassis with the bonding jumper...

My comment is correct. If you look at the NEC (which is national and not local) it does state that with a 4 wire system the neutral and ground is bonded in only one location for the entire system. When you connect a generator it becomes part of the system unless you are off-grid. In this case...

The surge rating of the generator is insignificant compared to the surge rating of your utility power. When you look at a breaker rating you will see something like "KAIR" or "AIR". that is the current interrupting ability. Your breakers should be good for 10,000 AIR (10KAIR). A 803 I doubt is...

You're welcome. We are all here to help each other.

That is not correct. With a 4 wire setup the ground and neutral are extended from the main panel. The chassis is grounded through the ground lug and connected to the ground rod at the main panel via the ground wire.

Per code if you are wired up with a 4-wire setup and the neutral is bonded in the main panel at the service entrance, you need to remove the bonding jumper at the generator.

The one I posted was a 4 wire.

Are you asking about the outlet for the generator or the inlet for the house? Edit: If you are looking for an inlet box you would use something that looks like this...

ug. Mining cable. Totally forgot about that one.

So long as it has the info stamped into the jacket you should be OK.

That is acceptable but to get to a true 50a cord is going to push you to 4 gauge. 6 gauge cord isn't rated for 50a due to the limited heat rise allowed in those cables. If you could find a 90c rated cord then you would be good. I've not seen anything like that available in the normal commercial...

Its easy and common to confuse ground and bonding. Its normal and desirable to have multiple grounding points in a system (so long as they are all connected together and at the same reference potential). In the case of a backup generator it is not unusual to have a ground rod at the generator...

10 gauge is too small. You will trip your 30a panel breaker if you try to take advantage of the 10kw rating of the generator. You need to run all new stuff from the breaker panel out to the generator. A new 50a breaker, 6 gauge wire, and 50a plugs are the minimum. As mentioned before run a...