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I already have the inverter. Its a Schneider XW6848. I've been running it on my current house for a couple of years now.

#3 wire is good for the load. At 100' you'll be well within the recommend voltage drop. Have you compared the cost of the cable with installing conduit and THWN-2?

I'm in the planning stage of a new house now. I'm going to be using a combination of utility power and solar power with generator backup. Since its a clean slate project its not expensive to put in two load centers. One is for all the "critical" loads and the other is for any regular loads...

Not getting a permit is one way to make sure it will pass inspection. :D Just as a FYI for others reading the thread, saying its a portable generator doesn't get you out of the violation. If you have a MTS then its assumed you are also doing manual load management so its not an issue. If its an...

Was the generator installed at the time of inspection? If it was and there is no automatic load shedding then it should not have passed. Obviously things like this slip by but don't count on it.

It does matter because voltage drop is relative to the current being drawn. You can boost it up when you are under load but when the load is removed the voltage will rise. Its best to size the wire so at max load you drop no more than 5% of the unloaded voltage.

Something to consider is it is a code violation to use an ATS with a generator not able to fully supply the connect load. Using a 200a ATS on a generator that makes 50a won't fly. You'll want to review section 702.4 of the NEC.