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The mystery deepens... I measured flywheel runout again from a more consistent point on the engine block. Found a low spot measuring .010". Pulled the flywheel and found out its about 1/8th inch too big to fit in the lathe. The crank bolts were not fully tight and the mating face of the...

With the rotor out, I measured axial runout on flywheel face and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Reassembling the rotor onto the flywheel, I remeasured runout at the end of the shaft and was still getting at least .020". I called it a night, but tomorrow I plan to remove tbe rotor and...

I pulled the rotor out and set it up on the lathe between centers to measure runout. Axial runout on the adapter plate was .006", measure mid-radius. Since the adapter is sheet metal and not necessarily true, I removed it and the support bearing and remeasured axial runout on the rotor's...

Went ahead and disassembled the genhead in place by removing the rear sheetmetal and sliding the housing and stator out the back after supporting the engine. The rotor looked visibly off center when observing the gaps between rotor poles and the stator laminations. I placed a dial...

At this point, it seems like I need to separate the engine and genhead to verify proper assembly and/rotate their relative positions. For those that have done this, is it possible to separate the two in the enclosure just enough to unbolt the genhead from the flywheel and re-index them to each...

Looking at the wear pattern in the skid base and broken weld in the left battery area, this unit has been shaking hard for a long time.

Well, no luck here. The paint shaker shows 88-21070-1 isolators, which crossreference correctly with-24P part number (88-21070-3) My 803a uses 88-21070-2 isolators. The -24P calls out 88-21070-4, which I can't cross-reference, but the convention follows similar to the 802 isolators.

That's an understatement. It makes my other 802a look like an 803a. I will try swapping isolatators from another 802 to start with and hope that is the issue, otherwise it is likely the genhead and engine need to be separated.

After starting reassembling and starting this unit up, I through a load on it. The unit was very shaky for a 802a, even after I tighten some loose isolator bolts. The unit could pull 6000 watts and seemed to be running fine, but anything over 3000 watts and the overload fault would trip after...

This month I dug back into this unit. Many of the gauges were non-functional and even since it ran last, the AC voltmeter quit working. I have swapped nearly every gauge off my parts donor unit to make this one functional. The oil pressure gauge off the donor was dead too, so I bought a new...

Thanks for clarifying

No, it had a 20 amp in there and I stupidly put another 20A in without thinking. 30A is already on order. So I'm reading the TM to diagnose the frequency meter issue, and step g. says "Multimeter indication should be 0.096 to 0.104 DC milliamps." Is that really ~0.100 milliamps or should that...

Success! I didn't nail down exactly the root of the problem, but I pulled apart the rear injector and verified no junk internally and plunger moved freely. I reset the injector positions and verified rack function, fuel return flow, and re-bled the injector lines. Hit the starter and it took...

Yes, I did that first before attempting to start the engine. There was good flow at the injectors and purge vents on the canister filter. The old filters still looked really good. Based on hrs and date written on the filters, this engine has sat a long time without being run.

A step forward, a step back. My new gasket showed up, so I got back to work today. First thing was tearing apart the pressure relief. It was definitely stuck. After removing the retainer and spring, the plunger would not come out. I flipped it over and had to tap it out with a hammer and...

Thanks Ray, I was surfing around for the best deal on those.

Removing the side cover was no issue, but the gasket got destroyed. Removing the pressure relief was easy. I love how servicable the engine is. Once open, I think I understand what might have happened. Though there was no water when I changed oil, it is clear there was at least some moisture...

Ray, you nailed it. Holy moly that's a lot of pressure!

It's been in the garage. Outside air temp has been 40°F That's an interesting thought! The oil pressure gauge doesn't work, so I'll rig up something manual. I had a little more success tonight. Through several starting attempts, the engine would run progressively longer each time. One...

The fuel system is primed and I'm getting squirts when I crack the line nuts at the injectors. I followed the TM, opening the lines at the IPs first and loosening the IP nuts, then the injectors nuts. I have not checked the fuel return to the tank yet.