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Buy the tools, they are not too much and you can do it no problem

It was a lot easier than expected for sure. If you know how to use a torque wrench and correctly tighten bolts in a pattern, your skill level is higher than needed for the hub. Figuring out shims with steves methods is simple, and may need a degree and a lot of luck to do it the army way. I...

A year ago I had little knowledge on all of it as well. Being one of the first to write about the locker install as there was not much info on it. Learned a lot about the hubs here, and until you open one up first hand, they seem more complicated than they are. If your serious about the truck...

The Detroit style locker keeps them always locked until one wheel free wheels faster than the other , like the outside in a corner. To do this you have to overcome all the lockup caused by the spring pack. I'm sure it can be done with a long enough cheater bar, but I know for fact you can't...

I still have a little growl left as well. Only at coasting. Seems like par for the course on this type of hub reduction. I may later this year check them all again for giggles. It's a lot quieter than previously. The locker has made checking the rear harder. No more being able to rotate...

My biggest problem with the military way is it does not take into consideration any wear or variances in machining. With steves ring tool method you are no longer hoping but know. Also the lash of the end gear is not adjustable, unfortunately.

Dial indicator is the only way, no way that I can see to get feeler guages in there. With the modified hub cover method you can really just feel for it. I have re done all my hubs and all but one needed more shims. On a positive the hubs now are much quieter and run a ton cooler.

I tried the plywood trick, didn't work for me. It's not an easy deal to put in.

Anytime you remove the spindle nut, you should check the gear lash. Or if you have a hot, or noisy running hub.

A 3 7/8" very deep well socket, RTV, and a way to measure to set the gear lash on the reduction gears. To just check the bearings you may be able to get away with not changing seals. The torque on the hub nut is surprisingly light.

I have seen the kits on e-vil bay

I guess it will be a bit before I get to this now and will start a new thread on it, including high speed gear install (since I'll have one hub apart good time to do it.) also ordered the seal drivers and a full hub kit. So I can machine the old hub cover and set the gear lash as Steve does it...

Steve, any idea what would make the ctis seal on a front hub continually fail? Ctis control box is disconnected, but still have all wheel hardware on. I only have 50 miles on the one I just put in, and now again have gear oil all over the wheel and drum again.... on a side note, do you...

I think it's 3 7/8"

Wow! That is awesome! I would have never thought of that. I attempted to use a piece of precision flat stock bolted across the base to get the depth measurement like in the TM. But that method does not count in gear wear or variances in machining. Your way of actual gear lash is much more...

Interested in your new setup for the hubs. Mine make a racket.