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Excellent! I will be taking my front in as well for an inspection and balance. It’s cheap insurance. I’ve further isolated that my shake. It appears only at a speed of 20-25 mph and seems to be timed to rotation of a tire. I’ve got some tires to swap in, will have to wait for the mud to dry...
We’ll some follow up to my viberations. Today I checked rim run out in the rear, the left rear was a little off center so I loosened the lug nuts and re torqued and double checked. From there I found about an eighth of tire out of round. May be from the fact it was 24 degrees out and I didn’t...
I’m sure with it correctly timed things will run much smoother. I wouldn’t fear the gear change, meritor has good write ups on setting gear lash. Setting pinion depth can be a pain. The size of everything is what makes things difficult. I had never done a meritor style before, and this was...
I’ve already got the 3:90 gears. Worth every single cent. Thanks for your shared info. Hopefully this will be a one stop shop for drive shaft issues. I will also be getting my front shafts re done. Cheap insurance!
. I’ve got a large shake, enough to bounce the whole cab. My guess now is it’s the tires, possibly a bent rim. The shake isn’t all the time, and can be driven through. But the speed it comes at happens at different times. Video is just part of diagnosis. I still need to check the rims and...
Hubs are good, i made a hub lash tool, and set the shims to spec. But I may double check if I can’t figure it all out. I did re-set the ring gear lash when I put a locker in. The gears working into each other was probably the noise heard in the video.
Mounted the GoPro today to watch under the truck, drove around and of course no viberations. Starting to think it’s a tire issue more and more. Interesting though my camera picked up some gear noise.
Safety tabs installed. Bad news is I still have quite a viberations sometimes from someplace. Front drive shaft still has the new stickers on it. Time to break out the go pro and see what’s what. Only happens when low drive line stress (coasting or just about to).
Ran the airsoft pellets in my front tires for a year, no issues and no possible way for the pellets to get into the ctis with the rim locks installed. FYI they worked great to balance the wheels. When I swapped tires I was to lazy to swap rims as well. But now I absolutely feel the difference...
Short shafts have higher RPM limits, and where will you put the balancer? Each end needs to be balanced independent and together at the same time. I’m just going to replace the joints every other year or so. Wear at the joints greatly magnify issues. My plan is
1. Install balanced shaft...
Through this process I have learned a lot about our drive lines and will share some findings.
1. The FMTV's use spicer 1610 drive line components
2. The drive shaft diameter is 4" , wall thickness is unknown.
3. Drive shaft RPM at 60MPH
Tire Diameter 46.4" travels 12.157'...
They said leave it until it’s bad, and replace it. I’m going to update the original post shortly with some tech info I’ve been collecting. Drive shaft RPM for both gear ratios, critical speeds, and such trying to make a one stop info spot for drive shaft issues.
Drive shaft shop says they see failed material in drive shafts often. Easiest way to tell is to take the shaft out and rock it back and fourth and listen. Noise is bad, no noise is good.
WELL I’ve got the highspeed gears to help. Have brand new joints to install as well. The 2:1 hubs sure don’t help driveline speed but do reduce the torque. I’m going start greasing everything more often that’s for sure. From what I have read and learned at the drive line shop is that often...
I had xzl’s on the front with the airsoft pellets and goodyears in the back. Viberations started after I put goodyears in the front. My lathe is almost back up and running, once I make a ctis adapter I’ll put aluminum rims on all 4 corners and do the airsoft pellets all around.