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I think what sparked the idea was someone's post on here where their brakes lost power and it was because the line drooped down onto the cv axle and got chewed up. kind of scared the beans out of me. Then it came time to do my own pads and it was difficult to refeed the fittings onto the caliper...
also in regards to what pieces, the banjo bolt at the caliper has a 20 degree fitting which allows us to angle the line away from the cv axle and keep it away. this makes it safer to run these lines as opposed to having a bunch of non steel braided line that hovers right above and around the cv...
Who: I went to a local shop that does custom brake lines and provided the specs on what I wanted. the beta models have worked extremely well and allow me to hang the calipers just by the steel braided lines. solid thangs.
What pieces: there is an AN fitting that connects to the splitter in the...
I had them custom made with the fittings I wanted and measurements. Costed 200 but well worth it considering they're much more reliable and converts the caliper connection with a banjo bolt connector. I also plan on wrapping it with spiral tube protector to keep the silicone cover and steel...
I didn't remove the undercarriage braces as well but removed the calipers and broke the driver side hard line. This caused me to just eff it and replace them with steel braided so I can remove the caliper and not have to breed in the future. The caliper can dangle by the steel braided line just...
Pressure tested to 10k psi. Made in America. Most of all DOT approved. 20 degree bed at banjo bolt at the caliper to provide most clearance to the cv axles. Steel braided and sheathed in clear silicone.
So update:
1. Made my own brake tool.
2. Had some custom steel braided lines installed to get rid of the crappy hard lines and multiple fitting/failure points
Thanks everyone got her buttoned up tight with nordlocks and red thread locker. Word to the wise...wear a respirator and eye protection. I got covered in brake dust and all I was wearing were some shorts
Thanks for the update on threadless and washers.
- I got the caliper off and the old pads out.
- I c-clamped the caliper to push the piston in.
- I put the new pads in
The caliper doesn't want to squeeze around the new pads even with piston all the way in.
Does anyone have any idea on how to disassemble the brakes without taking the caliper off. My goal is to just swap out pads. The rears look easy (there's a lot of room). The fronts are tight in there especially the driver side.
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