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It was definitely something sticking or grounding in the regulator. Unplugged it and the drain went away. Put in my spare regulator and it will sit for days and can still crank. Thanks everyone.

No worries at all, hope I didn't sound like I was not greatful for your post. After all, I would guarantee someone else who really needs that kind of help will find this thread and your post extremely useful, so don't feel like your time went to waste. And I didn't think to check the ignition...

Thanks, I followed the stock wiring when I rewired it. I've unplugged the light switch entirely, still a drain. The gauges do drop to zero, so does the voltage to the coil, so pretty confident the ignition switch is ok. That leaves the regulator, or start switch. I've been troubleshooting MVs...

Yes, I do a lot of locomotive work so mine can read up to 600 amps dc or ac. At the positive battery cable I get like .8 amps with everything off.

I have a clamp ammeter, been checking what I can that way but figured I'd ask here to maybe narrow things down.

This is my current thought. Going to drive it, and disconnect the regulator when I get back then check for a drain.

Never would have thought of this. I will check it out.

So I totally rewired my M37 with an NOS front harness and a made myself rear. Been driving it a lot more than usual ( usually 10 times a year, shows and rallys) So now, it seems I have a mystery battery drain. Swapped batteries thinking they were going bad, same thing. If I disconnect the...