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I used the same neoprene tape as Andy, no rivets, and I drilled 4 additional holes through the turret top cover and the roof for bolts. She has not leaked since. This and a new $25 rear hatch seal and I too have 99.5% of my leaks "covered.".

Yes, Andy mine was like yours, metal on metal. So I may to take your advice, bite the bullet, and tear off the hatch cover and start from scratch with a seal and be done with it until a new leaks manifests itself, hmm, did I hear windshield?.....

This may, thank you. Depends upon how it is designed to be attached. If it designed to go around the actual rough cut out of the roof, and has excess at the top to act as the seal when the cover is bolted down, then yes it probably will work.

Today I installed a new large rubber seal around the rear hatch door. I also replaced the hex head bolts with carriage bolts on the rear pillar to keep the seal from ripping on the hex heads. Earlier I added a piece of rubber across the deflector above the hatch door and that has already...

I can use some advice. I have a 2003, 1045A2, slant back with a roof that leaks like a sieve. I have the “turret cover” pretty much sealed. I added additional bolts and then caulked and Flex-Sealed all around the round lid which was used to replace the turret. However, the slant back “hatch...