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Interesting - I wonder if the ABS ECU was the culprit for burning up the J1939 resistors.

Yep. And some will probably work because those guys throw parts at problems constantly. Still definitely a gamble.

Well many people have swapped to just two batteries and had no issues so four group 24's should be fine.

Yeah I've never had mine disconnect. But I've not seen the 100A unit disconnect or fail to run with the grid heater running either - the grid heater is on the 24v side and that's the less loaded side of the alt (compared to the 12v with all the lighting turned on). I think you have some serious...

Also - for the time being and for testing while you wait for a replacement - don't hesitate to connect the batt and load cables for the 12v and 24v respectively together with some bolts and nuts (and insulate them). As long as your batteries are charged and you don't connect them backwards the...

The one I got one in that thread is from this guy and cleaned up really well: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124776145677 There's vendors here on the SS forum that have them to. You could check with @Suprman and @wheelspinner.

That whole unit is trash IMO. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/lbcd-replacement-due-to-loose-studs-carnage.206979/

That is normal. It's a fusible link.

LBCD voltage drop should be about 0.5v or so. 1.0v is a lot. 1.6v is unacceptable. 12.6v is fully charged for a flooded lead acid battery so you are close there.

If you can back-probe the ABS computer while cranking you can watch the voltage on your meter. I mean there's lots of things I would consider pulling out one of my half dozen oscilloscopes for but simple voltage drop tests I wouldn't bother. If you can't back probe the ABS controller you could...

Resistance tests rarely tell you there's a bad connection because the meter is using it's own voltage and tiny current to test the resistance. At those small voltages and currents the poor connection will probably seem fine. 0.2 Ohms could just as easily be the zero on your meter. You must check...

The starter is cabled directly to the batteries. The ABS computer gets it's power from the PDP which is on the other side of the LBCD, the power distribution studs under the PDP, through CB's and then gets it's ground through the cab which is cabled to the chassis. It was also the case with the...

The ABS computer seems to be especially sensitive to low voltage conditions. And as @Lostchain pointed out the manual does indicate that many fault codes require an ignition power cycle to clear - so you may not be able to clear the code since it will return after the ignition cycle. Sounds to...

It is normally off but it has weird behavior after clearing codes. I've experienced clearing codes and then the ABS light still not going out till you drive a few MPH then it goes out. I recall having to play with it after fixing a dirty wheel speed sensor and it wasn't straightforward how to...

Does the software say the light is on? Do the wheel speeds read correctly while driving? I have noticed that you have to power cycle the unit after you clear codes to get the light to go out.

Same. Odd since it's connected to the bus but yeah even on the new A1P2 trucks I haven't got it to work with J1939. Doesn't seem to be an issue though for troubleshooting so I haven't bothered to look into it.

PGN is Parameter Group Number 65226. See the "(0)" at the end? That means the response to the DM1 PGN 65226 request was zero. In other words there are no active faults. Check powers and grounds to the ABS module.

Many ABS systems will complain if they see differing wheel speeds and the codes will typically self clear. It could be the case on these as well. We have that problem a lot at my shop working on vehicles when we run them on a lift and wheel speeds are all over the place so the controller just...