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Yes it's the start switch. You also have schematics on the gen set door, for quick referance. Yes S1 is labeled on the back of every control panel, on every gen set I have ever seen. Might be a good idea to start your thread, if you want max help in the forum. That way we do not have to tell...

Then you have a MK 1 or 2. The switches were not as reliable as expected, and the Army went to the MK3, 75902LV switch.

Jack, Take a picture of the S1. There are 3 different types. MK 1&2 switches were not very reliable. They were made from plastic and were open to dust intrusion. The MK 3 was sealed, and I have NEVER seen or heard of one failing. Try looking these numbers up in a auction web site. Part...

Are you holding the S1 in the start position long enough? This is a very common fault. When you try and start it, and get the fault, what readings do you have on the meter? After starting, and you get the fault, have you simply tried pushing S1 back up into the start position, WITHOUT...

Morning! The Volt Reg is in the control panel. It has the A1 written next to it. Right side of the balkhead. Open your -24 manual to PDF reader page 393. There is the start of the troubleshooting for GENERATOR SET FAILS TO GENERATE POWER: For the first step, testing the A5 governor, go to...

You all take care also!! Happy vets day right back at you!!!!!!!!!!

Its getting late here. 24:30. So we can try one more thing, then this old soldier needs some beauty sleep. Behind the control panel, on the right side, on the bulkhead, is the A1, Volt Regulator. Is there a fuse directly to the left of the A1? If so, check it with a multimeter to see if its...

Start the set up, hold S1 up, turn on the S7 Battle Short and let go of the S1. What happens?

But the volts and hertz came on as long as you hold up the S1?

Open the control panel. Look to the left. On the side of the CB3, Ground Fault Interrupter is a small switch. Not on the cover, on the side of the box inside the control panel. Its hard to see. Its a small switch. Press it, and the CB3 is reset. When you let the S1 go, does the volts and hertz...

Chris, I need to know what you are calling Test and Reset Breaker. I am going to guess its the A2, Malfunction Indicator, (Fault Indicator or Idiot lights). If I am wrong, let me know. That's one good reason to look at the -10 manual. It explains what the things are, what they do and what we...

Well, let me ask some questions. It helps us know how to go about helping you. Is this set new to you? Have you ever seen it work right? Were you working on it and it quit functioning? Have you used a TM before? Can you get along in a schmatic a little bit? Do you have a multimeter? If you...

Go to the TM forum here in SS. Look for the TM's for the MEP-804A. Download them. Then we can talk some more.

Pope, Did you work through the troubleshooting diagram? Every problem can have different causes.

You know the real deal Chris. I have had new parts, in the wrapper come to me bad. You just never know. No job left the shop without running at full load for a few hours.

Grimlock, TEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And test again. Seldom will a problem just "go away". Put the set under load. Run it for a few hours. Step the load up, down and up again. Make sure its good to go.

I just had a thought. If the undervoltage relay tripped, and you did not reset the fault indicator, then its possible the set was still in the fail mode and would not light off the main A.C.

Grimlock, There is a color coded schematic in the thread listing, in the TM section, "All the tms you need to work on the MEP-802 and 803". Its larger then the schematic in the original TM, (easier on the eyes) and of course color coded. Much easier to use. Also, if the Hertz is low, the...

Concentrate on getting Excitation. If your S-1 is bad, the exciter will not send voltage to the Main Alternator. Are you guys able to use the schematics? Or, better asked, do you have the schematics? If so, follow the path from the S-1 to the exciter.