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Of course. The kill a watt meter. Always. Now, if the freq transducer is one of the older types, take it off the back wall of the control cube. remove the AC input wires. Some of the freq transducers had a metal plate on the bottom. Some didn't. But under the bottom of the plate or the housing...

Thats the way it should work. Have you read the TM on adjustment? If not, then its kinda hard to get it right. Yep, you can pull it out and clean it up. But reinstall it IAW the TM, then adjust it. Every once in a while they go bad, but TEST before tossing it.

If the starter is "stuck", try inspecting/testing/adjusting the S7 switch. That is the switch you have disconnected. That is what Chainbreaker ment by start control I think. The TM's are your best friend.

If your going to fix a ground, do as many as you can find. There are several. Another place ground can make you crazy is the fuel pumps. They are supposed to have serrated washers, to improve the ground. If there are no serrated washers on the mounting bolts, and both sides, then replace them.

I also found my starting issue. Not sure what it's called, but the switch next to the oil filter isn't making contact. I can bypass that switch and it turns over without issue. Refer back to post #46.

OK, I guess we start with S7. I think its a likely candidate also, but we are starting in the middle of the circuit. Its easy to check. Both links above get you started, but don't teach you how to use the schematics. The one kinda misleading thing about these two links is, you jump to...

Go back to post #16 and#18. What I wrote then, is what you need to start looking at. What do you mean by, " every position does what it's supposed to do but the start position". Have you looked at the schematic and measured the start circuit, from the S1, to see if you have 24 volt coming out...

I am kinda new to this stuff. What's a GP harnes?

You should not have a problem then.

Your making progress partner, making progress. Have you ever done anything like an IP removal? Have you read the -34 manual and understand what you read? The IP removal, repair and re installation is not all that hard. But its also easy to screw up. You just need to take your time. If this...

They can be a life saver, when you just don't have time to fix it, or the part just ain't here yet.

Not just the oil pressure switch. ALL engine safety's. That's the reason S1 provides the "jumper" for you. In the start position, S1 circumvents all the safety's. So if you have not voltage at the solinoid, the circuit between the start switch and the solinoid is where you start. Two ways to...

1. When you remover the electric fuel pumps, did you notice if all the mounting bolts had serrated washers? They are supposed to, to give you a better ground. So if there are none, you might consider getting them. 2. You only get voltage to one side of the fuel cut off solinoid. The other is...

Glcaines has outlined the right way to do this. And I personally would not use ATF. Some of the guys use Seafoam. It appears to be a very good product. The student hand book is good reading. And I wish you would scan it and post it in the SS TM forum. But the rest of your books are so very out...