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OK, and you should get the voltage with S10 also. I forgot to say that. The MPU produces its own voltage, so its not dependent on the set. And its only in extream cases that the MPU will keep the set from starting. Mostly you find the starter grinding, or no excitation, as the problem.

Yes, that's the MPU. And you did measure at the two wires going into the MPU? MPU means Magnetic Pick up. And yes, I had someone measure the two wires going into the control panel. We liked to never got that straight! And you have to get AC voltage on those two wire for the set to start, excite...

OK, I am up a wile longer. Its 21:11. I will keep an eye out for your posts.

Here is the short version. Go to the MPU. Disconect the two wires. Hook up your meter for AC VOLTS and hold the probes to the wires, while someone turns over the gen set with the S1 switch. You want between 2-3 volts AC, and the closer to 3, the better. Try that. Are you working this problem...

No need to look at L4. It works. Nor the MPU. If the MPU did not work, the L4 would not move. Having said that, the L4 is something I always pulled, checked, cleaned and PROPERLY reinstalled on almost any gen set I worked on. I just made sense to me to do this simple thing, and never have to...

Robert is correct. Very common problem. That's why you always look at the L4 to see if it works. If it works, it's a fuel /mechanical problem. If it dosn't work, it's an electrical problem, (99.98% of the time).

Wil the fuel cut off solinoid work? When we know that, we will know if it's electric or mechanical.