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I have to take exception here. The thread you started had 24 messages in it. And 3 of which were yours. You really told us NOTHING about what you had, wanted or needed. The general information you wrote about, can in no way bring clarity to the situation. People can not give you advise, if you...

It would be a good idea to start your own thread on this subject. First off, old people like me have a hard time figuring out who shot John when several people are all wanting help for different problems, in the same thread. BUT, most importantly, you get better exposure, of your problem, when...

And your relays look just like the picture? Keep in mind, if you put a relay in the S14 socket, and S14 into a relay socket, the set will NOT start. I did this in the dark, so I know!

When S1 is in the prime and run position, you have 24VDC at K16-A, right?

There is a very slim chance, that it could have been the A2, (fault Indicator panel). Saw the problem only a few times. The A2 controls not just the lights, but also the funtion to shut the set off, or even restart it, if the A2 has not been reset after a fault.

On the back side. Pull the plastic wire harnes connector,

Pull the plug on the Fault Indicator. Try and start the set normally. What happens?

124-114111 use this part number. look in the big auction site.

100 AMPERES DC RESISTIVE LOAD

You are ASSUMING, that if it is pulled out, its good. Measure from Ground to both sides of the S17, when its pulled out. Got 24 VDC on both sides? Is CB1 pushed in? See above comment about assuming. TEST, then you know.

Spotted that, didn't you Ray!! Was wondering if anyone would. Both are rated to 50 amps, both are 24-28 volt coil. Like I said, the mounting holes should match up. I could look if anyone is really interested. But even if they didn't, drilling a hole is easy.

Simply, (Ha, Ha) remove the bracket and filter. Put it in a vice with brass or Alu jaw inserts and then get ugly with it. I will warn you, when you tear the filter housing up, the edgess will be like razer blades. I have several scars on my hands to prove it. Might be hard to find them, there...

The relay, K2 fits EVERYTHING in the power generation field. Heater field. Air con world. And about a million other things, (like an AMG) and its just not to be found. No place. BUT, if one looks closer, at the data sheets, one can find its older brother. 5945-00-686-6877. Yep, he is the older...

This is where you went wrong. You confused a VR, Volt Regulator with a governor control. The Vr is still a good idea, but what we really need to know now, is what your gen set will and will not do. Because I am lost here now. Hi Kurt ...........I have a question. Does your govinor control...

In a heart Beat.

Well.......................................... if you want to see how it works, go to the -10 and -24 TM's. The -24P just shows you the parts, not how it functions. Shortly explained, hook up an aux. fuel line to an Aux fuel source, and after the set starts, place the S1 in the Aux Run position.

Try going to the top of the page to Classifieds.

Why don't you try the parts wanted section here in SS.

First, pull the K2 out. Take it apart. They were often filled with water, and it corroded them up. A bit of sand paper and it can be fixed. Wonk cost a bit of money, and the worst that can happen is it don't work. The relay is to be had in the internet.

In message #2 I asked that question, and his reply was yes, they are charged. Lets see what comes of the S10-2 check.