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Gunger, Please start your own thread for your problem. This thread is long enough as it is, now. Be glad to answer your questions when you do.

Actually, tracing wires with just numbers on them is easy. Look at the schematic, get the wire numbers and where the wire starts, and where it go's to. What do you care about whats in between? Point A to Point B.

Long gone. yes sir. Mine is long gone.

As long as it stays in one place. Driving down a tank trail, it was kinda nice to have.

You knuckle head. Its the battery hold down. :LOL:

If you just want to take the radiator out, it helps when you do not remove anything but the top and the bolts front and back, then use an over head lift to simply pull the radiator out. And this is NOT a job to do alone.

Got the radiator, shutter, radiator support, grille and fan installed. I'd like to meet the guy who designed the way all that goes together! 3 very heavy pieces and 1 light piece that all have to been put on at the same time and they all bolt thru / to each other. Idiotic! I could have told you...

We ran 24/7, 365 days a year. After about a year, the radiator cap door stud was AWOL and at least 1-2 or the control panel door door studs were also gone. I hated them.

Do not use the original door locking turn locks. They are too soft and if loose, the vibrations will destroy them. I hated replacing them.

This is all I use here in Germany. Works very well.

You do know that CARC paint is a proven cancer causing agent? Inhaling the dust, or spray painting CARC is not good. I just haven't heard of folks having cancer from it, I know them. I sure hope you took precautions.

Glad you put the grommets/plastic rings back in the holes. One of the most spectacular gen set burn ups, I ever saw, was because the grommets were missing.

I always used TM covers. Always worked fine.

The control cube is A3 FO-1. AC and DC, 15 and 30 KW, 50/60 and 400 Hz, Precise and Utility, Wiring Diagram, Dwg. No. 72-2205 (Sheet 4 of 4) The S/P Relay box is A27 FO-1. AC and DC, 15 and 30 KW, 50/60 and 400 Hz, Precise and Utility, Wiring Diagram, Drawing No. 72-2205 (Sheet 3 of 4)

All you have to do is look in the TM. The J1/P1 cable goes to the Special Relay box. There is on the schematics, at least twice if not three times, all the info as to what wire goes where. Then in the -34 Tm its shown again.

You mean set tank. Day tank is the small, maybe a gallon tank on the right side.

I also discovered this morning that my water pump is leaking a small amount from the weep hole. Tiny drips but actively leaking. Going to keep watching it but I suspect that I will need to do something about that. Found a source for water pump rebuild kits for White D198ER for $160. Comes with...

Got the temp gauge on the panel working. Barely hit 120 *F before I shut her down - (Wrong!! Stopping it before it gets hot is wrong. Hot you want, as long as it stays in the engine temp parameters. ) don't want to wet stack it. This should not be one of your worry's. You have to run several...

That's how you test things, IAW the TM.

The TM will not show you how to pull the pins. I unscrewed the plug end on the cable side, pulled the plastic cover down and simply pushed the pins out. After a while, I got the opposite pin, (female?) and used that to push them out. On the jack side, I seem to remember simply pushing the pins...