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I got the truck from a mine up here. It was used to haul supplies in and out. They obviously used it a bit and lots of add on and other fixed/replaced items. They had 2 inner bearings on one front axle. Now that I have finished all the brakes I am pretty positive I had 2 brake cylinders...
Pretty positive it fell while jacked up with both fronts removed. both sides are cratered showing that she plowed straight to the ground. Installed a locker in the front hub today and will add the Boyce hubs.
Thanks. I had the numbers off the ones I removed. I gave the numbers to the bearing store and instead of shipping (2) 3994 they sent (2) 394A a smaller race. I had a friend pick up the correct bearings in Anchorage today.
Easier way of removing races if you happen to have a stuck race and welder. Weld a bead all the way around race and it will fall out on first tap.
Damaged spindle and threads.. tig welded the grove. Fixed it up a little. Tired of buying parts. Bearing and races were no good on front axle...
Front axle time... looks like it has been dropped at one time. brake shoes are bent on both driver and passenger side. Bearings toast on driver side. This is starting to be real work as I keep adding items. I did a comparison on Boyce's site and I figure when I am done with all upgrades it...
tcase and transmission vent locations...
mine is still tore apart. trying to decide how to cut the cab apart to do the crew cab... i am currently in slow season and not working a lot so I have lots of time for the new project in between small welding jobs coming in.
Replaced all brake lines except for front axle. Had some little droplets of oil coming out of one of the hard lines along with the brake fluid.. What should I look into or rebuild? Going on week 2 of working on this truck and it is slow going!
Drained and cleaned the fuel tank.... didn't...
Thanks for the link. I never came across that in my searches for things to do before swapping. Luckily I put air to it just to listen and watch before install and I even pulled that cap to have a look. All looked nice, clean and acted functional.
I took this item off my other tcase because the one on the air case was froze up.. tried cleaning and lubing but the gear inside would not move. Also, the one that came on the air tcase had an added grease zero.. not sure why. Isn't this oil fed? The o ring in the coupler from hose fell out...
Lockers installed in both rear axles, all seals replaced and new brake cylinders. New to me air T-case installed took 3 tries with little mistakes... ugh
Now the difference with pics of a air tcase and a sprag. The previous owner also rigged a manual engagement for the sprag. I just figured...
Thank for the info. Air pressure seems to build fast and have not noticed any issues. I will keep an eye on the drains and see if it gets worse, better, or the same. The winch was a big bonus for sure.
Took the title to the DMV today. Left the air valve open the other day while in the shop all day and black sludge came out.... Today after draining air tank confirmed it was oil. First tank was all water. I will check the filter or add that to the growing list of items to do. The wheels are...
I found out what this is for. It was designed for arctic climate and a canister slid into the cylinder (surefire heater) and it would plug into outlet on fender and warm up the coolant in the engine. Warmed the tube and the coolant flowed around the jacket. Talked to Gary's Trucks in...
DOT 5.
Upon further inspection previous owner installed a spin on fuel filter kit... nice find for me
Work list starting on Thursday:
- 2 speed air TCase install
-complete rebuild kits for front axle and one rear with boots
-2 yukon lockers
- 6 new wheel cylinders,
-fix power steering mount...
Couple questions for anyone interested in replying.
1. I believe I have the T136-21 (sprag) style T-case. I tried engaging it today to see if it works. Well, it is unhooked from lever. Can I add parts to upgrade to air? I don't really want the front only engaging after the rears slip. I...
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