Search results

I’ve read of guys doing basically that plus red lock tight. Otherwise they do make shim kits with washers that replace the crush sleeve (at least for 12 bolts they do). Takes forever to set up but once done you can torque it down without issue of crushing the sleeve anymore. Theoretically you...

If it’s original you just heat it up until the plastic melts out and then press/hammer it out. Otherwise if it’s been replaced there will be clips on the inside that need to be removed.

If the angles match then they’ll be fine. Literally thousands of trucks are on the road with a 4” lift (or so the internet would have you believe). I have no idea why you’ve had such a difficult time considering you bought a kit. Ridiculous.

Why spend the money to half assed lengthen your driveshaft? Just make it the correct length with the T-case in the stock location.

When I have driveshafts made, my shop just wants a measurement from the yoke to the end of the tailshaft. They do the rest. Is this not a driveshaft shop that you’re dealing with? http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/app/webroot/img/File/how_to_measure_diagrams/b.html

It’s the lift blocks that exacerbate the axle wrap affect. You can certainly feel it from a stop if you get on the throttle. You can break leafs, u joints, etc. i would ask how the driveshaft place wants tou to measure. They know how to take into account how far the slip yoke moves. 2wd...

the application would be for a 2wd version of a k5 (but a c10 would work as well).

That yoke is dangling out quite far. Almost looks like the pinion angle is a touch pointed down but doesn't look horrible. Plus with those tall blocks you'll have a bunch of axle wrap so it'll probably get fairly equal. I've never dealt with relocation brackets. I gave you a source for cheap...

They have angle finder apps for smart phones. Without pictures I cannot give suggestions. Your need to adjust the steering linkage from the pitman arm to the knuckle. It's at the drivers wheel well. It's easy to figure out. Cant help on the brackets for the brake lines. I use extended lines...

I'm still running my stock front drive shaft. I've only got a 2" lift over stock though so unsure on with a 4" lift.

Shocks: I have boots on my shocks, I don't think it's a negative to keep debris off of the shafts. Blocks/driveshaft: Typically people use shims to correct driveshaft angles but with blocks it's not the greatest option. A better option is to machine the angle you need into the actual block...

So what all did you get for a lift? Just front springs and rear blocks? Did it come with new u bolts? I would just get some 2wd blazer/c10 front rubber brake lines. The rear is most likely fine since it's centered over the axle and if not you can bend the mount down. Install the front...

I've said in previous posts that you can use 2wd front brake lines to get cheap extended lines. You just need to remove a bracket from them that is bent around the hose. 35" tires weigh a considerable amount. My bfg ko2's with steel rims come in at about 100lbs each. You're asking if axles...

I got a great deal on axles and couldn't run a 15" tire anymore so figured I might as well step it up to 35's. I use mine on trails up into the mountains so I was always nervous of my rear axle but never actually had any issues. It doesnt really sound like anybody is going to convince you...

I off-roaded quite a bit with 33" tires and the stock 10 bolts. The rear differential can explode if you're able to spin one tire and allow it to bang into the locked position but it's hard enough to get a wheel to spin in the first place :lol:

Everything for any solid axle k5 will fit. If whatever you get ends up being a touch too low you can always order a zero rate block for the front or rear and add a bit of height. Shouldn't be as insanely priced to ship as leaf springs would be since they're small.

My m1009 is a 2" lift, specifically the tuff country hd 2" lift springs in the front.

If he went the usual cheap small lift kit it would probably be fine with a 35/12.5/15 tire and maybe a bit of trimming since it sounds like he's mostly on the road. I don't think I'd go over a 33" tire though with stock axles and 3.08 gearing on an m1009.

What front axle? The Dana 60 is a wider track than a 10 bolt or d44 by 2".

Looking at that picture, I don't see how that could even be possible to not rub like crazy while driving. It looks like it's rubbing in that pic just sitting there lol. My 35's rubbed turning out of my driveway with a 2" lift. I also have as much backspacing as I possibly could to get them...