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Well, we finally had enough snow last weekend to justify putting the plow back on. Sorry I didn’t get any good action pictures or video, and we only had 9” with no real drifting, so was fairly anticlimactic, maybe more snow this week. The plow worked fantastic with no real issues other than...
Thanks plowboy, thats one cool looking plow truck!
No birdsnesting, I did add some weight just to be sure. You can see the piece of round stock clamped to the cable, that has since been painted orange with a yellow top. This acts as a headache ball and a site gauge. I can adjust it, so when it...
Just another tidbit, I made a supplemental hood prop to use while the a-frame is in the way.
Due to the fact that it looks like winter may completely bypass me this year, it will likely be fall, before I start mounting the hydraulic lift and redoing the hydraulic system as well.
I discovered a problem with my tension fit axle mounts when the plow is not on the truck. When the wife screams as soon as I go to pull the truck back in the shop and I SLAM on the brakes, they both dropped off on the ground.I added another 3/4" block to the 1/2" lip on the lower u-bolt plates...
Finally pulled the truck out of the shop to see how bad I could mess up the gravel on my washboarded driveway.
Decided I should likely be able to leave the bumper on for this season, that's quickly passing by with no snow so far. The plow only makes firm contact, if I don't raise it to high.I...
I've been crawling around under my truck and it's scary tight behind the PTO. Maybe a smaller volume gear pump might work, but I don't know about this vane type monster? Maybe 20-30 years ago I would have had the patience to attempt it!
I would consider it, if I didn't have the winch and it's hydraulics as well as this old 24V pump.
I taped the power steering on a 4x4 I built years ago to power the rear steering and it worked surprisingly well. That was just a factory 80's Ford power steering pump and steering box that I put...
I mounted the pump above the winch as far back as possible to leave room for the hydraulic lift in the future, yet still allow the hood to open fully.I still need to tidy up the plumbing, route the semi-permanent wiring, make a latch to hold the hood open, remove the bumper, sandblast and paint...
Anyone see any issues with picking up the power for my hydraulic pump from the starter solenoid lug?
It looks like the motor draws about 175A full load. I doubt I'll ever get near that, and it's very intermittent.
Thats ridiculous! Everybody knows its a gremlin not a gnome, and he works the CTIS not the winch, hence all the CTIS issues...
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Two cables hook to the end of the levers and run through the floor. One to the PTO on the transmission, and the other to the winches hydraulic control valve mounted on the inside of the frame rail below the passenger seat.
The brackets inside the tower, that support the lever and and capture...
Can't read or speak for the schematic. Maybe single acting is the "optional" part?
I had just been going off the characteristics as advertised for label Monarch M-3551. Thanks, I'm glad it worked out for me, as well!
Just had another set back, the previously poorly repaired, bent up, inadequately designed, POS, sheet metal, winch control tower pivot brackets broke loose again.
Yep. Got my fittings and powered it off the slave port. Cycled back and forth both ways to bleed all the air out of the cylinders. Positively double acting.
Ok, I guess best possible news.
My hydraulic unit is double acting and takes 52 second to turn fully one direction, which puts me at 2.25 GPM at 350 PSI, and according to my chart 2.6 GPM at 0 PSI.
So I think I can live with this for know if I don't get my lift cylinder mounted this winter...
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