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No I used off road diesel as the main solvent to cut the oil with first, then added the other solvents. I left them sit I disturbed from the time I posted that I made them until yesterday or day before. The days all blend together anymore.

Update: Was in the shop today and found my old test group I forgot about. The jars with Xylene and mineral spirits both showed very good results. Lots of carbon precipitates in the bottom of both jars. The jar with Naptha showed very little precipitation and seems to have been a complete failure.

You think that smells bad? Try living downwind from a paper mill. On another note, I have not checked my test group in a couple of days now. Will be gone from very early till very late tomorrow, so will check day after and post an update.

Ok, I see what you are getting at. And as far as lubricity goes, my thought was to let the solvent do it's job and then cook it off leaving only a diesel/oil blend because the other solvents all evaporate much faster than diesel or kerosene.

Give it a shot! Somebody has to figure this out, and the more people that get to experimenting, the more likely we are to have success. I just want to get all the dissolved solids out, that's my goal. I don't think the additives and detergents and such are going to pose much of an issue for us.

Checked on the experiments today, zero stratification. I'm not surprised really, but all three seem to be good solvents. They are all equally fluid and all three have close to the same amount of sediments in the bottom. Surprisingly, the mineral spirits seems to have settled out slightly more...

Thank you for posting links to your videos. They were very informative. And it certainly saved me some wasted time and money, now i know that there are no alcohol based solvents that will help me.

Alright, so I started a test group today. My control is WMO cut with approximately 25% off-road diesel. I used three quart mason jars for the test group with 1/2 quart of the control in each. Jar#1: to the control I added 1/4 quart of xylene and sealed the lid tightly, then swirled for ten...

Sorry about that man, I didn't realize it looked that way.

I have some UMO that has been sitting for a couple weeks that I cut with kerosene ( about a cup worth total). I'm going to add some xylene late today and let it sit at room temp overnight and see what I come up with. I'm hoping for some heavy stratification with good looking oil on top mostly...

Anyway, I'm pretty sure this can be done with the process that BB shared that Wiki link to earlier. This has to be what chemists do when they do oil analysis, we just have to figure out what chemical additives and process they use and then do it on a larger scale. And hopefully it won't be cost...

Right! And I've seen lots of YouTube videos of guys with small cracking towers set up and running in their garage! That's just asking for an insurance claim. Stupid.... At least put it out in the driveway while its running.

I'm not really worried about the lubricating properties, just trying to see if we can make UMO less damaging over time to our injection systems. If you could take the black stuff (carbon) out before burning it why wouldn't you? Should end up with longer pump life and less coking.

Sounds like I need to befriend a chemist.

Alright. Now we are getting somewhere. I don't have the means to distill oil obviously, but at least that is a solid answer to part of my question. Over time I am going to experiment with different chemicals to see if I can find any that will effectively break the suspension of carbon from the...

God knows I would never run recycled motor oil as a lube in my engine, but I'll sure burn it as fuel!

I'm just curious as to how the big boys clean and recycle their used motor oil before re bottling it. Something tells me that there has got to be some chemical that is added to the UMO to help the carbon particles drop out of suspension other than gasoline and centrifuging it. I'm no chemist...