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That was discussed in another thread some time ago. From memory the new ball and socket ends do hop less than the old rubber ones.

That would be cool. No reason the new ones from Erik's shouldn't last a very long time though, especially as little as most people drive their deuces. Just remember to grease them.

My engine test stands are cut just behind the transmission output shaft. There is a crossmember there that keeps it all together with or without an engine installed.

Surprised the truck moved at all with 10 psi of fuel supply. I wouldn't run it anymore until you get the high pressure boost pump fixed. You will destroy the HH for sure that way.

It doesn't limit much at all, it is really there to avoid axle to frame contact damage.

That's probably true, but then you lose that much articulation.

I think you need to just torch it up and part it out. Keep some parts you need and make a few bucks to put toward the other one. I wouldn't waste my time with used dogbones.

You still didn't lose money.

Yeah the filters are plugged, and remember these injector pumps really need an electric lift pump to supply them, so if that round tank has no lift pump in it and there isn't another frame mounted one somewhere that is a problem. Get a picture of the air park brake assembly for me would you? Is...

If you can get the other parts for free I would take them.

That is interesting engine placement. So are you going to fix this thing up and flip it, or try and use it for parts?

Ok so nothing special then. Direct drive trans even.

What is the trans shift pattern? And what does the speedometer max at?

It might be good for parts. But if it was me I would stop throwing money at junk and just buy a complete deuce to fix up.