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Ahh great to hear that all worked out for you. Mc-master carr is awesome. They have everything to do everything you ever wanted to do. They are bound to have one if you lose it.

thats what im forgetting. the timing button. i put an arrow on your pic. there is a small retaining ring there holding the timing button in. take a pick or small screwdriver and remove that ring. the timing button will come out and you will see the end of the plunger shaft. there is another...

here is a good reference pic for the pump. the shaft should just slide right out of the pump body.

sorry ignore this post. bad link

hmmm, when that drive washer is broken the plunger shaft should just fall out of the main gear then the spring and retainer and whatever else should just fall off with it... i think. like i said im going off memory but i know for sure i didnt need any tools to take anything apart when my washer...

now its been a little bit since i had mine apart but if i remember correctly if the drive washer is broken like your the pump will come right apart. you dont need the tool. the tool will be needed when you reassemble though since you will be replacing with a new drive washer. when i put mine...

Thats great!!

As Jerry said you should be fine. If you check with the flow timing method you'll know real quick an can be done in 5 min.

As long as you used the 1/8" drill bit and the teeth are meshed right then the timing should be right on or very very close. Timing is only changed with the timing button so its not like it can be adjusted. You have to change the button.

#1 is the blower wheel end. Compression sroke happens just after the intake valve closes. Easiest way of course is to watch it close with the valve cover off. Shouldnt need 15 degrees for anything that i know of. You kust checking when the fuel flow stosp injecting into the cyl ehich should be...

You also havebto take the spring i think out if the distribution valve on the ip and remove the stop solenoid so the speed lever can be held in the up position. Its all in the manual.

A breaker bar and a 5/8 socket on the blower wheel. You just take the fuel line off going to #1 injector. Reconnect it to the pump with the line aiming down so you ca catch the fuel in a bucket or something. Turn the switch to prime run so the pumps are on. Crank the blower wheel aroud until the...

Really its the original pump and nothing has changed so timing should be right. All your doing is a check to make sure its all right.

Rob in the manual method 2 is the flow timing and should be listed right after method 1. Atleast it is in the 003 manual. The flow timing is really easy. Look in the manual. If its not in there let me know and i can post it up out of the 003 manual. Your timing pointer does need to be set pretty...

Man robb your the ip parts man!! Lol

Where did you end up ordering the parts? The timing is cake. Use method 2, flow timing.

hey another thing. not sure if you realized it or not but atleast in the 003 manual there isnt a pic of your model pump. there are two types of pumps and the only breakdown pic of the pump you and i have is in the parts manual. the 002 manuals it may have been added. not sure.

no rob there is no disc thats all the pump body and doesnt come apart. when you look in the center hole on the end with the fuel line fittings, if the delivery valve and seat are all out i think you should be able to see the end on the shaft. try a brass or plastic drift/punch on that end and...

if it helps here is a closeup of the plunger/shaft when its out. there is nothing there holding anything in. no keyways, pins or anything like that.

oh yeah rob thats not right. that shaft should be smooth as tree guy said. thats why your parts broke. that is the plunger. the engine spins that thing and pushes it in and out. it should be like butter. if you have the delivery valve completely out you should be able to push on the...