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well if something was goin on the last time you ran it and you were slowly starting to score the cylinders then you shut it down and now its extremely hard to start. just yank the heads and see whats goin on. its very easy to do.

whatever it is, there is only one way to find out.........start rippin it apart!!!:grd:

yes unless the procedure for diesels is different than gas then your low on compression my friend. with all the glow plugs out, so it free spins when cranking, that is when it should be checked. engine doesnt need to be hot or warm. as jerry said it might add a few psi but not enough to get into...

if you got just a regular pressure gauge, i believe you have to have one with a check valve inside so the psi builds and you can read it. most comp testers have a schrader valve of some sort in them.....just a thought

i think that was njtoolnut that made them but i havent seen that guy on here in a really long time. ed i was thinking the same. you could just drill out an old glow plug, take one of the adapters from the hf kit, cut it and weld them together.

I know you can get a tester at, dare i say, harbor freight for $20 BUT it doesnt have the correct adapter. All the set i have looked at are all for metric glow plugs. These gens are 7/16-20 threads. You would have to make something up

i think that would be the same as increasing the timing button size. its odd though because this engine was running. all i can think of is that its not building enough compression during cranking to fire it off. once running its spinning quick enough. maybe back when the problem started and it...

man that really does sound like low compression to me.

if that spec is correct and it does sound familiar to me it would be 6ohms not .6 i can throw a meter on a good one since i have a stock of new champions sitting here.

or with all the starting maybe the glow plugs are shot? i assume you hooked them back up?

yeah just use a 1/8" drill bit in the hole. you really dont have to flow time the pump. the pump came off your own gen that you know was running good. the timing itself cant change.

thats good jerry. before zeus puts it back together he should stick the fuel hose coming from the filters in a bucket and turn the pump on to double check for bubbles going into the pump.

while cranking i would think you would see some white smoke or something if those injectors were firing. as one of the other guys said before, the pump may be pumping but it does have to be building atleast 1750 lbs in order to pop those injectors. you will need to pull an injector, hook it up...

well the injectors are good and if he is getting fuel to the IP then its time to pull the pump. he said he was getting small squirts of fuel but no smoke. assuming the shut down solenoid is lifting and the throttle arm on the pump is coming up then thats the only thing left.

thats a great tip jim! yeah jerry, he told me he talked to you. ill let him know on the load test and that you'll be in touch.

yes i have reused the little copper one before with no problems. i might have gotten away with reusing the big copper one too if they didnt have to be removed to clean the hole where the injector goes. the big one is kinda delicate. the fiber ones though for me always seem to delaminate or get...

zeus, when you pull the injectors you will need new gaskets when you reinstall them. there are 3 gaskets per injector. you can occasionally pick them up on a big auction site.:whistle: the smaller copper nozzle gasket that goes inside the cooling fins is 0147-0243 The bigger copper gasket that...

Well if your getting no smoke and you have good fuel to the pump then it can only be two things.....the pump or the injectors. If the injectors were firing then you would see some smoke. You did check that when the stop solenoid is retracted the governor arm is infact pulling the throttle arm up...

Adding to what harley said, also if the solenoid does work. When the plunger lifts be sure the gov linkage rod comes all the way up freely. The one i just had here would bind and not pull up on the ip arm all the way where it should. Had to lube and readjust to work freely.