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30 minute 60 mph run at night..set thermostat to highest temperature. Cycles on for 30 seconds, off for a minute. Saw 101 amperes on the alternators. That includes 12 amps for low beam lights plus 5 for running lights. 4 amps for fuel cutoff and rest is compressor. Voltage never dropped...

Its back alive! It wasn't the hose, it was a hard aluminum line. Vibration against the cab mount wore a hole in it. GTAW to the rescue, then a flush+lube change and dryer swap. It held 150 PSI argon so pulled a hard vacuum and charged. I also baffled the condenser and radiator with foam...

Got the speed controller..well built especially considering the origin. No documentation with the unit, I had to figure it out on my own. First is the testing. I hooked a 7506 single filament brake light bulb to the output, then used an 18 volt Ryobi tool battery to drive the motor speed...

Back to the future..the AC developed a leak in the high pressure hose so that will need to be replaced. So I have time to upgrade..first will be converting from a cycling system to a variable speed compressor. Why? Automotive AC compressors are designed to run at varying speeds which varies...

I'm getting about 16,000 BTU/hour off mine. Compressor is in the peak efficiency range and condenser is oversized with very good airflow. This is based on calculations I did this morning using 400 cubic feet per minute and temperature drop of about 35 degrees. I see ~3000 watts of cooling off...

The high pressure cap didn't seal, it blew out the seal last weekend. So I broke down and bought a kit containing new valves, the tool and two caps. Figured I would try to tighten the valves, just in case...AND IT WORKED!! Also found the can tap that works with my manifold gauge set so I...

Topped off the system today to proper pressure levels, now it produces condensate and cools adequately for hot days. The motor is a 3000 RPM rated unit, I measured 2950 RPM under full load. That is right in the heart of the compressor's peak thermodynamic efficiency. Now I need to fix...

I know about those tools. Unfortunately, the location and space of the compressor-motor and the charge/test fittings prevents that, unless I dismount the compressor-motor. $18 is too cheap. If the caps don't seal.

Yes, you could go with a battery equalizer to maintain 24 volt starting. With good batteries, you would have enough to jump start too. But still that 100 amp, 24 volt charging system makes jump starting just a bit better. I know, I have had to start timo247's 1009 a dozen times the last few...

Ok, $6.04 per can, with tax. I give them plenty of business. But now I see weepage from charge ports. So I either pay a pro to recover 24 ounces of R134a and swap the Schraeder valves or ignore it, then DIY and evacuate with $18 recharge. The Clean Air Act amendments are so arcane they...

Yes, I am a regular at this auto parts store and a little bit of honey got me the business account discount. Did the same with the group 27 dual purpose marine batteries in this CUCV. $80 out the door for batts with 850 CCA and 180 RC. Dual purpose deep cycle and cranking, because of the AC...

Motor is an Imperial Electric 24 volt 70 amp nominal draw NEMA 56 like size brushed PM DC cont duty 3000 RPM 2.25 HP that I picked up from a surplus retailer. The alternative energy guys depleted the stock so no more. I don't have a shunt to measure current but estimate something in the 80+...

FINALLY finished the project started in 2012, AC for my 1031. Basically, a large 24 volt DC motor is driving a Sanden SD7B10 compressor direct drive. The condenser is mounted conventionally, using the engine cooling fan and the evaporator is a small under dash unit. Aside from 2 holes in the...