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Zinc phosphate is a metal primer, save it for bare metal. Primer over bare needs sealing. Layers have purpose based on order of application. We were all beginners at one time. But never be afraid to ask for advice. There are many threads on using Home Depot Behr, a month's worth of...

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Rusty primer over bare metal, then high build primer-sealer over all. Mist coat with flat black spray paint, not enough to cover, just a dusting. Then sand with 180 grit with orbital sander until scratches are gone. It is now ready for final finish. Washing between sanding will show...

Sealer is a high solids primer, useful if you have used coarse abrasive especially on body filler. I haven't done a full look into your process and just used your finished product. Definitely get some finer grit. Coarse open grit is for shaping and thick finish removal, once you get scratches...

Guess you still have power. Painting is all about prep, military paint jobs are much easier as 180 grit is the finest needed. It appears you didn't have the surface sealed which telegraphed the issue to the surface. Let it harden, then 180 grit sand smooth and try again. Once assembled, I...

If the brake system has DOT5, there shouldn't be any corrosion so rebuild kit should be all that is needed. I've yet to encounter any corrosion in DOT5 systems.

As this is a 1031 SECM, the filler neck options are wide. No need for a locking fuel cap with the filler neck behind door #1 ( the generator control panel door). I get lots of looks whenever filling as the control panel is quite busy with 5 circuit breakers and switches, two gauges/meters...

Depends. Xylene might touch it. Urethane is a thermoset and highly resistant to even glycol base brake fluid.

Have you tried a heat gun?