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With that particular stuff, they make things called "closure strips" that are these foam strips with the same profile as the metal so they squish in nicely. Or you can just use expanding foam on the high ribs. Also the actual metal trims used with that have geometry made to divert moisture. Like...

You can get "exterior grade" 5052 that is already clear anodized(looks like plain aluminum basically), or anodized in other colors. But yeah it's going to be a cost vs durability dichotomy. You can always go with ribbed roof metal, it's only about $1/ft.

Pretty pricey stuff. You could just do like thin gauge 3003 aluminum skin. It'd be pretty cheap. And give you a good radiant barrier. Then polyiso foam board on the inside for insulation. It's like R6 per inch, not bad.

I know what you mean. The slats won't oilcan with temp changes, they're pretty rigid. I don't necessarily know where to source them. I'd just weld em on the backside and call er good. This place has a lot of speciality extrusions. I've bought floor plank from them before. That stuff is insanely...

Ok gotcha! Nothing wrong with steel tube. f you're going round tube, use DOM(drawn over mandrel) instead of ERW(electrically resistance welded). It's cold worked and has damn near double the tensile strength. It's a little pricier but it's worth it if you want maximum weight/strength ratio...

Responding to your original post. I'm a little late to the party but I'll do my best. Ok, so one thing, think of alloys. Are you bending the tubing on a bender? Get 6063. Welding or riveting it? 6061...