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You probably have identified the root cause of the no-run condition. We shall see.

The spring that pushes the metering pump pins 'open' isn't as strong as you think... especially if this set has been getting harder to start before you acquired it, it can fatigue the return rate of the spring. If the fuel rack moves freely without them installed, that's good. The fuel shutoff...

Those pins should rotate relatively freely. Perhaps you should give the metering pumps a couple days in a can of carb cleaner to see if they loosen up before reinstallation.

Yes to both Kurt. He posted a video in the opening post of this thread FYI.

Could be that the pumps themselves are frozen too, but yeah need to keep moving through the system.

Should be a pressurized spray coming out... Is the drip shown what's passing through? FSS = fuel stop solenoid

That is an odd orientation, but yes thats the most up to date pump. It normally has the following setup (stolen from a previous fuel pump thread): But whatever works.

And one other thing.... did you manually change the hertz setting in the video, or did it move by itself? I see the cable move in the video.

You would need to find the NSN for the pump to see the various iterations over the years for approved suppliers and their part numbers. I have had NOS cube pumps be nonfunctional at installation. Ease test to just take the bottom feed off whats there, and either use a short run of hose or an...

Those cubes are nothing but a pain in the arse. The Airtex units are better (but not perfect either). When moving to that style though, there are some fittings and a short length of rigid tube needed to make the jump down to the hard line.

Even though the cube fuel pump is making noise under prime, have you disconnected the rigid fuel line (to the separator) to confirm its pumping fuel? Have you let the system prime for a few minutes after the fuel line replacement? Did you pull the line off the return T at the tank to confirm...