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Question for you guys, If I had some alternator mounts manufactured that took a COTS 24V alternator and fit the stock location, would people be interested in it? Would it also be desirable to add a pad to mount a 24 to 12V convertor so that the whole package sat in the stock location and made...

I think that is an A0 mount. Here is the A1 that looks like it might not need much tweaking to take that alternator…

That’s a bummer man. I have an extra LMTV alternator bracket you’re welcome to if you need a foundation to fab up a custom mount. Also I’d be interested in buying your neihoffs off you if you’re giving up on them.

The regulators are temperature compensating, so that may account for the slight variation it seems like you have in the 28v band. Not sure if you were tracking the voltage versus the ambient of the different legs of your road trip. The fluttering of the voltage was the part that was incorrect...

Oh I just noticed that video you added. My alternator was doing exactly this. Did that persistent pulsing of the needle go away after cleaning the VR connector/harness?

Fair enough, then how about I run the alt close to rated output until temperature stabilizes and then overload it with 200A for 10 minutes and see if heat begins to rise ?

Super curious to hear your results.

What would you consider a legitimate test that would confirm (or deny) the alternator is current limiting in such a way that an overload isn’t actually doing harm? Here is what I am thinking: Niehoff's documentation states the 100a is good to about 118amps peak, so my thought is, place a 200A...

When you say its an analog controlled device, what do you mean specifically? The Voltage regulators are microprocessor controlled. Do you mean that the microprocessor is relying on an analog current sensor?

Interesting, Niehoff seems to have a patent to do what you are saying their alternator cant do...... https://patents.justia.com/patent/7466107 FIELD OF INVENTION This invention is related to a control device for a generator, including a system and method, wherein the control device uses a...

Amber simply means it is below the setpoint, the alternator doesn't "disconnect" in low voltage, only over voltage. Sounds like your system is behaving normally. As has been discussed at length on this post and many others, the 100A alternator is undersized for the job, For some reason a...

My stock 2003A1 with original alternator goes dual orange when grid heater is on HOWEVER it does not disconnect the battery. First thing I would do is check the voltage at the 28V terminal on the alternator while the grid heater is on and engine running. What is the voltage? On my truck it was...

100% agree, but fixing that by deleting batteries is problematic as @aw113sgte unfortunately found out in the dead of winter. For folks that don't want to deal with the suspension upgrade hassle necessary to upgrade a 100A truck to a bigger alternator, really should pursue your advice further...

I didn't see anything that said it was due to high failure rates. I could just as easily speculate that its because any truck in the inventory today needs more current for all the additional radios and computers that go into a truck these days..... I've seen plenty of things saying the 100A is...

I have no doubt your correct, by why does neihoffs documentation specifically say it is self limited? That’s the part I don’t understand, do they not understand the product they produce?

So as you passed beyond 120a and the voltage started to drop, isn’t that showing that the alternator is limiting its current, thus protecting itself? Said another way, if you had had the load bank at the batteries, and an inductive clamp at the alternator, even if you put 500a at the batteries...

people claim that for sure… I called neihoff about my 100a alternator that I suspected had a bad regulator (mainly due to comments I’ve read on this forum) and they steadfastly refused to consider that my regulator was bad, the technician repeatedly tried to steer me back towards some problem...

I hear this a lot, but I myself haven’t come across a post where a failed alternator was definitively diagnosed. People like to claim it, but have they really broken the whole system down, removed all variables and tied it specifically to a failed alternator? Would love to see a forum post like...

Have you tested and observed this yourself with a load bank on a niehoff? I am working on upgrading the motor on my test stand right now to test this.

My understanding is that the LBCD will disconnect if RPM is above 1500 RPM and the system voltage is below 20.5V Load is not taken into consideration at all, so something as simple as corroded connectors could cause it to trip potentially. RPM comes from the AC pin which is read as Hz X 10 =...