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One very important thing to remember... as stated in the TM, when removing 2nd gear from the mainshaft; only press 2nd gear about 1/4", just enough to grab the 2-3 syncro sleeve with a bearing spreader, then press ONLY the sleeve off the shaft by itself. I've seen pics of the carnage when we get...

What you asked is correct on removing the mainshaft, you just need to keep an eye out for the non-caged bearings falling out the back of the input shaft as you remove the mainshaft. Regarding 2nd gear, Gringeltaube has recommended grinding oil channels into the shoulder adjacent to the 2nd gear...

With the top cover off, you're so close to "looking down further" already... if you haven't tried sliding 1/R and the syncros back and forth now is the time to do it. If you need to "look down further", IIRC, it's just a matter of taking the jackshaft loose, and removing the flange nut and...

Perplexing... As pretty as that plate and shift fork dogs are, with none of the top plate components being obviously bent, loose, gone, or stuck, or the fork tips being excessively worn, if you can freely slide 1/R gear back and forth on the mainshaft, and can slide 2-3 and 4-5 syncros home both...

Please let us know what you find.

Yeah I see some rounding, but doesn't look bad to me. Gringeltaube is the guy who's opinion I'd really want on the subject. Maybe PM a pic, and ask him.

White Owl Parts had the new shift fork and some other stuff I needed when I rebuilt mine... http://whiteowlparts.com/ Boyce Equipment had the best deal on new main shafts at the time (not sure if they'd have new top plate stuff)...