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It does not matter remove both of them, like I said just do one at a time.

They are more or less in front of the tank and a PITA to get to, do one at a time so you do not get the lines crossed.

It common practice to remove BOTH of the check valves in front of the tank as they cause problems. that bleeder will only have pressure while it is running, do you know if you truck has a mechanical or electric lift pump?

I would think not have you removed the two check valves in front of the tank?

Of course you should have a volt meter or test light connected to the IP run connector to make sure that signal is not dropping out.

I hate to keep hounding on this but are you sure the return is clear, maybe I just have return on the brain but if after a couple minutes it starts and then dies in the same manor every time it is tried that sounds like a plugged return, the IP does not like a pressured buildup in the governor...

5 gal should be enough

Problems could be check valves, plugged fuel sock in tank, bad lift pump and of course you already changed the filter. Many advocate removing the check valves right away on all HMMWVs so not a bad place to start, it could also be a plugged return which has one of those check valves in it. You...

I always use some mixture of "coolant" it helps lube the ceramic seal on the water pump, and helps protect the aluminum parts, I only use "flushes" if absolutely necessary, you really have to be able to removed ALL traces of the flush or you risk long term damage so if not really needed I would...

Great, that is rather odd though, I would probably fire it up on a week 4-6/1 mixture and drain it after it gets fully warmed up a few times, as warm as I am comfortable with at drain time.

Damn nice job! how deep was the wax and have you seen it anywhere else???

It should have a drain, maybe it is plugged?

Because the rest of the pan is using sealer only if you do try and use the gasket it will place the cover too high to align correctly

I replaced the pan on my GEP turbo and all it had was sealer so that is what I went back with. Actually IIRC the rear had a rubber seal that went over the rear main bearing, other than that is was just sealer, sorry

Start with the cam timing marks aligned, then rock it back and forth a little and make sure the came chain is not in a bind, sometimes the cam will try to move a little because the valve springs are pushing on the cam lobes.

You will not be able to move ether sprocket very much without putting the chain in a bind, just be careful and don't "tweak" that new chain.

But heck you have the bull by the horns, no doubt you will end up with a "new" engine!!

Huh, looks like maybe the cam chain/sprocket will have to come off, looks like one key for both... You will probably have to pull the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket at the same time as that cam sprocket has too far to go on that cam. unlike most other V8 engines with cam chains.

I don't think you understand what I am talking about. I am not talking about the steel backing plate for the water pump as one of the pieces. I am only talking about what you can see in the pictures you posted, if you look at the one you posted from the web the timing cover looks much different...

Interesting, so what you are saying is there is still two parts of the cover in place in those pictures?,, I just looked at a 1993 6.2 and a 2009 GEP turbo and they both have a one piece cover, wonder when/why they split that cover in half?